Cure Demodectic and Sarcoptic Mange

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Ted's Dog Mange Cure

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Ted's Dog Mange Cure (Most Popular)


Ted from Bangkok, Thailand writes, "The best cure for dog mange is to mix a 1% hydrogen peroxide solution with water and add borax. Dissolve thoroughly. Wash the dog with it once a week. Do NOT WASH THE solution left on the dog with ANY WATER. Do not wipe the dog dry. The solution will take effect on mange. The treatment period should not be longer than a month or two. The dog will probably not be resistant as the treatment is painless. This has worked well for me."

More Exact Measurements (excerpted from various emails on our Reader Question & Answer Section)

Ted replies, "A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found mites, or mange to have a large "beehive" hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the dog in a small area that is 100% sterile."

"Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus 1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near a 1% solution anyway."

"You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in a pail of water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated solution of borax. Add H2O2 to about 1% concentration to a pail of water. Soak the entire dog, several times. Keep the dog wet for some time. The borax will destroy the eggs from laying under the skin which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use this to wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this every week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog now no longer have mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try other chemicals such as sodium perborate, which is more convenient since you don't need to add the hydrogen peroxide."

"The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be applied AFTER the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate should remain on the dog after the bath. You will not rinse this at all. It must remain on the dog throughout the day so that it will act continuously on the bugs."

"However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is sodium perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus hydrogen peroxide) will work better then most other remedies I have tried, this includes mineral oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not kill the mange as effectively as sodium perborate) I have tried it. In my "mange colonies" and commercial brands to kill insects don't work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium perborate. Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange, but that didn't stop it. I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO, potassium permanganate, light fluid, etc. They all worked temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong statement that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium perborate) works bests and it is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas, and lyme disease (initiated by those crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side with neem oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents denaturation of DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life extension for dogs. For example a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar, and various sugar that causes accelerated aging in dogs can be slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when you do the borax wash. "

"Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that cup. Stir and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to dissolve. The formula doesn't require an exact science. The importance is to add enough borax until the solution is no longer soluble and well past saturation."

"...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG OF borax and peroxide solution with any shampoo or water. After bathing the dog, keep the dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This is why the dog has not improved. Also BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the 1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is added separately, otherwise the solution is too weak."

7/12/2006: "I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both by my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people have trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate, so I revised the remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution applied only once or so every week. The solution of sodium perborate hydrate is very much similar when borax and hydrogen peroxide is added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl peroxide.

The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you can use it without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if given beyond a 10% concentration. 5% is usually a safe concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of its toxicity is somewhat of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what it is in the original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax to go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to its limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For me a regular vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide has two similarities. It is both a penetrant and when added with a safe insecticidal material such as borax, which has an toxicity on LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the preferred method. However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.

Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic than borax. Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the equivalent toxicity to about that of salt. (check wikipedia). The idea is to make a solution of borax so that the solution can cover the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog to kill the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure powder will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it through the dog's skin.

In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of these have similar effectiveness, but in different ways. Neem oil prevents the Demodex fleas from laying eggs by modifying their hormones, while mineral oils are moderately toxic only to the demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them. However, both are very limited based on my tests in really killing the insect. You see borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs by drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited solubility and limited penetration of the skin which you need either vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be preferred.

Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has evaporated and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their eggs somewhat. Only a fairly concentrated solution works and it does not prevent re-laying of stray eggs by the dog. In other words, the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl peroxide, and vaseline will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are not just on the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that the borax powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the eggs even after the dogs no longer has mange and re-infection is therefore next to impossible. However, borax has limited effect on killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.

I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added to the dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at the same time. My dog for some reason likes to eat something like more than 1 gram of the sodium perborate crystals whenever he feels sick and the fleas just die off. The borax modifies the dog's blood and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax, i.e., sodium perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that destroys the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around throughout the house.

VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is that it has limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is not a penetrant, and therefore the frequency of applications will take at least once every other day. Additionally, the hair of the dog will prevent proper application.

Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with hydrogen peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax powder after bath. On the argument of being effective only as a spot treatment. Since dogs do not have sweat glands, not using a rinse will prevent the borax from absorbing into the skin to kill the mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need both borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread it to the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through the skin, such as vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide. A benzoyl peroxide is both a penetrant and insecticide, but at higher concentration is somewhat toxic for dogs and as a result you are pretty much limited by the maximum concentration not to exceed beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself at 3%.

I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that whatever formulation you use, always stick with borax and borax derivatives, such as sodium perborate monohydrate being the main insecticidal chemicals for the dog.

Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% - 0.2% to prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection areas. The second mix you need is always the penetrant and the third formulation is appropriate dilutions in water. To provide lasting killing effect, non of these chemicals should generally be non-volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most recommended are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal mixture as borax and borax can performs both killing the insect, modifying the hormones to prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach poison for the insect, and at the same time causes their eggs to dry up.

I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you use including hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited concentration), and vinegar. It must be noted that when formulating any mange it must be noted that they must be non-volatile and the chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the house so that re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.

I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange treatment, and hopefully other people will make a more effective formulations in the future at least equal or better than the original formula I have proposed. Just want to tell you that there are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of toxicity, re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and which is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is important, the chemical must reach the target demodex under the skin. Usually hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do that. It must be reminded again that borax, to work most effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it off, followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you wish. Any other application other than this such as using as purely powder form is NOT going to work.

[YEA]  09/11/2006: Vincent from Modesto, CA: "I used the peroxide, Vinegar,and 20 mule team borax soap. It started to take effect right when I put it on my dog, which has been itching forever and losing hair even around her eyes. The itching has stopped. Mira has elephant skin also during this ordeal on her webbing in between her legs which is smoothing out also. One bottle of 3% peroxide and two bottles of water from the empty bottle of peroxide which brings it down to 1% in a water pitcher. !/2 cup unfiltered vinegar, 1/2 cup borax and it will dissolve. I shampooed her first and let her dry. Then sprayed the solution all over her between her toes also and pads and leave it on. You will see the difference in her skin right away. Adding 1/8 teaspoon Borax to 2 liters of water for drinking all the time cleanses the inside also of mites from itching and biting. I spray her down every other day with the solution....I hope this works for you."

[YEA]  08/22/2006: Sally from Oklahoma City, OK: "I have been doing Ted's treatment for about three weeks and it is slowly curing the mange"

[YEA]  07/23/2006: Jack from Toledo, OH: "My daughter got a miniature dashund from a "Petco store" that had touch of mange on his ears, which started out the size of a dime, it spread to the size of a silver dollar sized area on both ears, I gave him a good bath and dried him off. then soaked him mostly his ears, and applied the "Borax, peroxide, a little lemon juice in a 1/2 gallon of water, soaked him in it and "DID NOT DRY HIM,LET IT DRY ON HIS WHOLE BODY , ITS BEEN ABOUT 8 WEEKS NOW AND ALL HE HAIR ON HIS EARS IS GROWN BACK. HE'S NOW A BEAUTIFUL, little guy very perky, with a small white area on his chest and the rest a typical reddish brown."

[YEA]  01/18/2006: Trudy from Cynthiana, KY: "I knew my dog had mange this summer, or possibly a terrible case of flea allergies. All I knew was if I went to the vet he would slowly poison my dog, at a very high cost to me. Traditional mange treatments are very harsh, mitaban is extremely toxic to say the least. I'm not against going to the vet, I sure have spent a lot of money on my four dogs there. So I searched for natural non toxic remedies, and I found your website. At the time you had only 2 remedies posted. At this point my dog was only 1 1/2 years old, a purebred, and well taken care of, there was no good reason for him having mange, or at the worst terrible flea allergies. He is a beautiful black and white Australian Shepherd. This is what I did.

I tried the remedy from Ted of Bangkok. I had two problems with his recipe. I never could keep enough hydrogen peroxide in the house. I only used it twice. And he said to leave the mixture on the dog, and don't dry him off, well what do you do with a sopping wet dog in the house, or when it's super cold outside. So I modified the recipe and method of application. Max (my dog) had lost at least 60% or more of his fur, from his shoulder blades all the way to his tail, including his legs, underbelly, and even the back of his ears. This was pathetic, I'm sorry but I didn't take pictures, to prove my point. THIS IS HOW I CURED MAX. These are the ingredients I used. You must buy these, nothing else, no substitutes. 20 MULE TEAM BORAX, it will say natural laundry booster under Borax, you can get it at Wall Mart Super Centers, and ORGANIC APPLE CIDER VINEGAR, IT'S RAW AND UNFILTERED, You can only get it at a health food store. ( Do not buy at a grocery store, those vinegars only smell and look like vinegar, but they have absolutely no medicinal value.) The third and last ingredient is simple cheap, people shampoo, like VO5, or Suave.

THIS IS HOW TO APPLY. IF YOU DOG IS REALLY, REALLY, BAD WITH MANGE, DO THIS EVERY THIRD DAY. WHEN MY MAX STARTED GETTING BETTER, USUALLY AFTER WASHING HIM EVERY THIRD DAY FOR TWO WEEKS, NOW I ONLY DO HIM ONCE A WEEK. Now all you need is a small plastic cereal bowl. Put 1/2 cup of borax in bowl, now put 1 1/2 to 2 cups of warm water in the bowl, mix it very well with a spoon, not all of it will dissolve, lots of it will settle on the bottom of the bowl, don't worry. Now add 1/4 to 1/3 cup of Apple Cider Vinegar to the bowl, mix well. Your dog is now in the tub, well lathered up, Now you take the mixture, and pour, or apply by hand all over his body, it will spread easily, don't worry about the grittiness, just don't rub it in too hard, it might fell like sandpaper on the dogs skin. I would have my dog sit with all this stuff on him in the tub for at least 3-5 minutes. Well I was worried about winter, and my fur less dog, but now in less than two months all of his fur is back, happy, healthy, and playing in the snow. One thing I didn't mention at the onset of his problem I did a 2 week detox on him to help out his immune system. This sure couldn't hurt any dog with illnesses. P.S. Get the book "
Apple Cider Vinegar" It's only $8.00 at your Health Food Store, or go to to order. This is an amazing old time, folk type remedy. I've been taking it for less than 2 months, and have had amazing results, you'll know why your dog is getting better once you know what this product is capable of doing. I wish good health to everyone's best buddies, good luck!!!"

01/05/2009: Vivian from Edmonds, WA replies: "So you don't wash the shampoo off before you use the solution of borax/apple cidar vinegar?"
[YEA]  12/23/2010: Prometheus613 from Cleveland, Oh replies: "Have a boxer/mini pincher mix, male, started showing symptoms of mites. I read just about every comment to this remedy and concluded a few things:

(1) I would assume that if the provider of the remedy titled it "Cure for Demodectic and Sarcoptic Mange, it does not matter which kind your dog has, this remedy should work for both kinds of mites, and as Ted says, fleas, ticks and other critters.

(2) The notion that a dog who manifests an outbreak of demodectic mites is genetically inferior and unworthy of breeding is suspect at best. Consider, the underlying reason for most demodectic episodes is a compromised immune system. It does not follow that this is a genetic deficiency when the primary reason for poor pet immune response is POOR DIET. So all these yahoos who militantly advocate the destruction of an animal's raison de etre, namely its reproductive organs, on the basis that the animal displayed symptoms very likely to have been induced by an owner's negligence, is frightening in its brutality.

(3) 95% of all the comments relating "veterinary medicine's" response to this condition were the same, a vet medical establishment appalling in its capriciousness and bad faith. It would seem that many vets do not even think of mites as a possible diagnosis, at least until 2-4 other, expensive, toxic and ineffective responses have been IMPOSED on the unwitting pet owner. This leads me to believe, quite reasonably I think you will agree, that most vets are EITHER evil OR stupid; maybe BOTH.

Bottom line, this cure is just that, a cure. To those who need to know exactly what to expect, know that the first treatment for my dog seemed to really highlight all the affect areas on his body. I really did not know the extent of his infestation until AFTER the borax/peroxide solution dries. The wounds become red, puffy and pronounced. GREAT, that is the little mite saying "OH S$#@". After treatment my dog is stuck to my side, like I'm his doggy savior."

12/30/2010: Seekingthecure from San Diego Ca, Usa replies: "I am so glad to find this forum and this thread. I have two cats with an infestation that has been called "nothing, " "blackheads, " "mange, " "lice, " and various other useless things by a series of vets and vet dermatologists. The infestation is a small insect that burrows into the skin. Apparently, that's not in the vet manual, so they just pretend it isn't there. It mimics some effects of mites. It responds to avermectins, but develops a tolerance to ANY therapy after two weeks. The cats self-mutilate in an agony of itchiness if I don't treat them at least every seven days. They get secondary infections in their skin in the holes where the bugs lived. (And no, it's not warbles! )

I want to try this borax treatment. Unfortunately, my husband is wildly opposed to vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and DMSO. Is it possible that vodka (40% alcohol) can be used as the liquid to make the borax penetrate the skin? We use vodka to dip the cats it to keep the current infestation under control, in combination with rotating types of avermectin shots. This keeps the bugs under control, whatever they are, but it hasn't been a cure. I don't recommend this to anyone else, though. The vodka-dipped kitty is flammable until it dries, so we cage them away from heat or flame. We dip them once a week. This treatment has saved their lives, so far, but it has not cured them. I have read many accounts of pet owners with intractable infestations, especially in the San Diego area. They describe the same symptoms that my cats have, and the same misdiagnoses. And all report the same resolutely ignorant responses from veterinarians. There are even several boards where people recommend treatments. But nothing has been a cure for my kitties, and I would like to try borax. Does anyone know if I can mix it with the pure vodka dip? Thanks--Desperate Kitty Mama in San Diego"

Ted's Dog Mange Cure in Spanish

07/01/2010: Monica from Cachagua, Zapallar, Valparaiso, Chile: "Ted's mange cure remedy

I would like you to include this recipe in spanish. If you cannot do it, I can do it for you. This would be very helpful for south americans where the mange is one of the main reasons for people to abandon dogs in the streets.

Hope to be able to colaborate with my translation in order to spread the experiences. I just started to do 4 treatments last week with this remedy in 4 abandoned puppies. Hope to have success and send you the feed back later.


EC: Hi Monica,

That is a fantastic idea, thank you for suggesting it. The best we can do at the moment is to use Google's English to Spanish Translator. If you see anything that needs to be corrected, please let us know...

07/06/2010: Earth Clinic replies: "Google traducción de bórax Ted Remedio:

Ted's Perro Cure Sarna (más popular)

NO confunda BORAX con ácido bórico!
No use ácido bórico en un LUGAR DE BORAX!

Ted de Bangkok, Tailandia escribe: "La mejor cura para la sarna del perro es mezclar un 1% de hidrógeno solución de peróxido de agua y añada bórax. Disolver completamente. Lavar el perro con él una vez a la semana. NO lave la solución a la izquierda en el perro con el agua. No limpie el perro seco. La solución se llevará a efecto en la sarna. El período de tratamiento no debe ser superior a un mes o dos. El perro probablemente no será resistente como el tratamiento es indoloro. Esto ha funcionado bien para mí ".

Más medidas exactas (extraído de varios correos electrónicos en nuestro lector de la sección de preguntas y respuestas)

Ted responde: "Una receta definitiva es añadir 1-2 cucharadas de bórax por cada 500 cc de solución al 1% de peróxido de hidrógeno ("H202). Para hacer un peróxido de hidrógeno al 3% a 1%, aproximadamente obtener una parte de H2O2 al 3%, más dos partes de agua. Luego, se aplican en el perro. Lavar con esta solución todos los días, no en sentido. Si no desaparece, he encontrado ácaros, sarna o alguna parte de tener un gran "colmena" oculto. En cuyo caso, poner en cuarentena el perro en un pequeña área que está 100% estéril. "

"Dimensiones aproximadas son: 1 frasco de 500 de H2O2 al 3%, más 1000 de la cc de agua, más 3 cucharadas colmadas de bórax. Revuelva hasta que la mayoría de bórax se disuelva. El bórax es más allá del punto de saturación de aquí, así que podrás ver algunos bórax alrededor. Técnicamente, la concentración es de alrededor de 1,5% H2O2, y esto es un poco más fuerte porque en el momento de terminar con ella, el H2O2 se reaccionó con otras cosas, y cuando lo usamos es por lo general termina cerca de un 1 % de la solución de todos modos. "

"Usted tiene que estar puesto como bórax mucho hasta que se disuelva ya no está en un cubo de agua y forma un precipitado. Se trata de una solución saturada de bórax. Añadir H2O2 al 1% la concentración en un cubo de agua. Remoje el perro entero, en varias ocasiones. Mantenga el perro mojado durante algún tiempo. El bórax se destruyen los huevos de por debajo de la piel que causa la sarna. Obtener una solución y el aerosol o utilícelo para limpiar todos los pisos por lo que el perro no va a recibir una nueva infección. Repita este todas las semanas al bañarse. Esto no es una cura perfecta, pero mi perro ya no tiene sarna. Mi perro se curó completamente. Puede probar otros productos químicos como perborato de sodio, que es más conveniente ya que no es necesario añadir el peróxido de hidrógeno. "

"La solución (bórax o, preferentemente, perborato de sodio), debe aplicarse después del champú y enjuague. El perborato de sodio debe permanecer en el perro después del baño. No se le aclare en absoluto. Debe seguir siendo en el perro durante todo el día para que se pronunciará continuamente acerca de los errores. "

"Sin embargo, recomiendo una forma menos tóxica de bórax, que es perborato de sodio si usted puede encontrar uno. El secreto es que el bórax (más de peróxido de hidrógeno) funcionarán mejor que otros remedios más he tratado, esto incluye el aceite mineral, el neem de aceite (no, el aceite de neem no mata la sarna con la mayor eficacia perborato sódico) Lo he probado. En mi colonias sarna "y marcas comerciales para matar insectos no funcionan. NO NO MATAR El peróxido de hidrógeno sarna, lo usé SIMPLEMENTE utilizado como un catalizador para el bórax ordinario en caso de que usted no puede obtener perborato de sodio. Aceites minerales simplemente evitar que el oxígeno de la sarna de llegar, pero eso no ha impedido. He tratado de nafta, arcillas bentonita, DMSO, el permanganato de potasio, el fluido de luz, etc . Todos trabajaron temporalmente, y que acaba de regresar. tengo que hacer una fuerte declaración de que la fórmula (bórax + H2O2 o perborato de sodio) Las obras mejores marcas y es de amplio espectro. Se puede utilizar para controlar la sarna, los ácaros, pulgas y la enfermedad de Lyme (iniciado por los insectos espeluznantes). De hecho, he comparado lado a lado con aceite de neem, aceite mineral, vinagre de sidra de manzana y otros aquí en Bangkok y esta es la cura espectro más amplio que he encontrado. Bórax evita la desnaturalización del ADN / ARN en el perro y yo lo estén utilizando como extensión de la vida para los perros. Por ejemplo, un azúcar ribosa, el azúcar desoxirribosa, el azúcar y diversas causas de envejecimiento acelerado en los perros puede ser frenado con la suplementación de los perros indirectamente al hacer el lavado de bórax. "

"Peróxido Preparar una solución al 1%, añadir 2-3 cucharadas de bórax a la taza. Revolver y esperar un par de minutos para que el bórax se disuelva. La fórmula no requiere de una ciencia exacta. La importancia es agregar bórax suficiente hasta la solución ya no es soluble y el pasado y la saturación. "

"... La razón por la que no funciona es USTED NO PUEDE EL PERRO DE ENJUAGUE bórax y solución de peróxido con cualquier champú o el agua. Después de que el perro de baño, mantener al perro de esa manera, no secar sin enjuagar. Por ello, el perro tiene no ha mejorado. BORAX También se agrega directamente a la solución de peróxido de hidrógeno al 1% y no se añade agua por separado, de lo contrario la solución es demasiado débil. "

7/12/2006: "He revisado todos los tratamientos del perro sarna, tanto por mis propias pruebas y por muchos contribuyentes. Parece que mucha gente tiene problemas para obtener materiales, como el perborato sódico hidratado, por lo que revisó el recurso al peróxido de hidrógeno más solución de bórax aplica sólo una vez más o menos cada semana. La solución de hidrato de perborato de sodio es muy similar al de bórax y el peróxido de hidrógeno se agrega. Algunos han sustituido ya sea con peróxido de hidrógeno peróxido de benzoilo.

El problema de peróxido de benzoilo es el límite superior por el cual usted puede usarlo sin efecto el perro, ya que es algo más tóxico si se les da más allá de una concentración del 10%. 5% es generalmente una concentración segura. El peróxido de benzoilo, debido a su toxicidad es algo de un insecticida, mientras que el peróxido de hidrógeno no es, lo que es en la formulación original es que es un penetrante que permite el bórax que pasar por la piel. Ahora algunos no como el peróxido de hidrógeno debido a su oferta es limitada, así que hacen uso del vinagre de sidra de manzana. Para mí, una de vinagre ordinario es suficiente. Tanto el vinagre y peróxido de hidrógeno tiene dos similitudes. Es a la vez penetrante y cuando se añade con un material seguro insecticidas como el bórax, que tiene una toxicidad DL 50 equivalente a la de la sal, este es el método preferido. Sin embargo, uno no debe usar el ácido bórico muertes ya que se presentan asociados con el ácido bórico, pero no bórax.

El ácido bórico no está recomendado para su uso ya que es mucho más tóxico que el bórax. toxicidad de Borax es alrededor de 3000 mg / kg, que es el equivalente a cerca de la toxicidad de la sal. (Wikipedia cheque). La idea es hacer una solución de bórax para que la solución puede cubrir todo el cuerpo y penetran a través de la piel del perro para matar los ácaros Demodex, por ejemplo. Para utilizar un tratamiento in situ de polvo puro tomará un tiempo infinitamente largo, ya que no hacerlo en la piel del perro.

En algunos casos, las personas han tratado de aceite de neem, aceite mineral. Ambos tienen una eficacia similar, pero de diferentes maneras. Neem aceite evita que las pulgas Demodex pongan huevos mediante la modificación de sus hormonas, mientras que los hidrocarburos son moderadamente tóxicos sólo para los huevos demodex, no necesariamente los mata. Sin embargo, ambos son muy limitados sobre la base de las pruebas que realicé en realidad matar a los insectos. Usted ve que tanto el bórax matar a los huevos, la modificación de las hormonas y sus huevos mediante el secado de todos a la vez. La debilidad de bórax es limitada solubilidad y la penetración limitada de la piel que necesita o bien el vinagre, el peróxido de hidrógeno, peróxido de benzoilo (tóxico), MSM o solución de DMSO. Lo ideal sería que DMSO 10% se debe preferir.

Pino Sol ha limitado la eficacia insecticida, que es un insecticida de contacto, y no proporcionan energía duradera matar una vez que se haya evaporado y no mata las pulgas que viven, pero no mata los huevos un poco. Sólo una solución bastante concentrada de obras y no impedir que vuelvan a la postura de huevos perdidos por el perro. En otras palabras, el uso de aceite de neem, aceite mineral, el peróxido de benzoilo, y vaselina no impedirá que el recurrente de la sarna, ya los huevos no son sólo en el perro, pero puede ser en cualquier lugar de la casa. Por lo tanto la re-infección es que se trata. La magia que bórax tiene sobre sus vecinos es que el polvo de bórax deja que los perros en la casa va a matar a los huevos, incluso después de los perros ya no tiene sarna y la re-infección es por lo tanto casi imposible. Sin embargo, el bórax tiene un efecto limitado en matar a los ácaros más grandes y las pulgas, sarna, pero no.

He descubierto que la adición de 1 / 8 cucharadita por litro de agua de bórax añadido al agua del perro hará que las pulgas más grande a secarse y morir al mismo tiempo. Mi perro por alguna razón le gusta comer algo así como más de 1 g de cristales de perborato de sodio cada vez que se siente mal y las pulgas los justos mueren. El bórax modifica la sangre del perro y mata a la sarna del revés. Esta es la razón por bórax, es decir, perborato de sodio, se requiere para la sarna, pero no cualquier otra cosa, debido a la re-infección de prevención de la sarna por el polvo de las bórax que destruye los huevos donde el perro duerme y donde se pasea por toda la casa .

VASELINA: El problema sobre el uso de vaselina como insecticida es que ha limitado la muerte de los huevos, pero su debilidad es que no es penetrante, y por lo tanto la frecuencia de las solicitudes se llevará al menos una vez cada dos días. Además, el pelo del perro se opongan a la aplicación adecuada.

Algunos han llegó al extremo de no utilizar una solución de bórax con peróxido de hidrógeno como un enjuague y luego siguió probable, tal vez un polvo bórax después del baño. En cuanto al argumento de ser eficaces sólo como un tratamiento localizado. Dado que los perros no tienen glándulas sudoríparas, no usar un enjuague evitará que el bórax se absorba en la piel para eliminar la sarna en virtud de su piel. Así que esto no va a funcionar. Se necesitan las dos bórax como un insecticida, el agua como la solución que en su difusión a la superficie de la piel, y un penetrante fiable para conseguirlo a través de la piel, tales como el vinagre, MSM, DMSO, o incluso el peróxido de hidrógeno. Un peróxido de benzoilo es a la vez una penetrante e insecticida, pero en mayor concentración es algo tóxico para los perros y como resultado está bastante limitada por la concentración máxima que no exceda más allá de ser un 5% de seguridad que prefiera. Prefiero limitarme a un 3%.

En consecuencia, propongo, no para que te pierde en el bosque, es que cualquier formulación que utilice, siempre se mantienen con el borax y derivados bórax, como perborato de sodio monohidrato son los productos químicos insecticidas principales para el perro.

El piretro es dar el visto bueno a pero en concentraciones muy bajas de alrededor del 0,1% - 0,2% para evitar irritación de la piel de los perros cerca de las zonas infección de la piel. La mezcla de segundo que necesita es siempre la penetrante y el tercero es la formulación de diluciones adecuadas en el agua. Para proporcionar un efecto duradero matar, no de estos productos químicos en general, deben ser mezclas insecticidas no volátil, que por desgracia son los más recomendados, con excepción tal vez de bórax y bentonita. Bentonita causas huevos a secas, por lo que se puede utilizar también, pero no tienen mezcla de insecticidas como el bórax y el bórax puede lleva a cabo tanto matar a los insectos, la modificación de las hormonas para evitar la puesta de huevos, se convierte en un veneno para el estómago del insecto, y al mismo tiempo el tiempo hace que sus huevos a secarse.

Por lo tanto, seguirá siendo muy flexible en cuanto a lo que se utiliza penetrantes incluyendo peróxido de hidrógeno, peróxido de benzoilo (concentración limitada), y el vinagre. Cabe señalar que al formular cualquier sarna es preciso señalar que no deben ser volátiles y los productos químicos debe causar residuos microscópicos alrededor de la casa para que la infección vuelva de la sarna se impide, incluidos los ácaros y pulgas.

Creo que esto envuelve la teoría básica y la aplicación de tratamiento de la sarna, y es de esperar que otras personas hacen un formulaciones más eficaces en el futuro por lo menos igual o mejor que la fórmula original que he propuesto. Sólo quiero decirles que hay muchas maneras que usted puede tratar la sarna, pero el tema es uno de toxicidad, la reinfección, los niveles de tóxicos, que parte de la mata y cómo, y que es el penetrante que es la clave de todo. Penetrante es importante, el producto químico debe llegar a la meta demodex debajo de la piel. Por lo general, el peróxido de hidrógeno, el vinagre, DMSO y MSM hacer eso. Hay que recordar una vez más que el bórax, un funcionamiento más efectivo, es preparar una solución sin lavar, seguidos por una pequeña cantidad de polvo de bórax que se aplicará si lo desea. Cualquier otra aplicación que no sea esta como el uso como forma pura en polvo no es ir a trabajar."

Ted's Mange Treatment Tips

09/20/2009: Stephan Toth from London, United Kingdom: "The advice for using Borax for the Treatment of Mange and other Mites is very good however there seems to be some confusion so I hope to clarify the situation.

1) If your dog has mites then you can be sure that they are present in the whole of the area that your dog uses and that in a lot of cases the humans have them too. You can test if you have mites (scabies) if you itch after having a bath or at night when you go to bed.

2) You have to treat the whole of the above at the same time or you will have a cycle of reinfestation from your pet to the house to you to your pet. So choose an action day and get everything ready for your war on mites.

3) In the case of your house, all beds, sofas, carpets, cusions etc that are too big to be washed including rugs and carpets should be treat with the borax solution or lime sulphur and covered in strong plastic sheeting using duct tape. I know its a lot of bother but its cheaper than throwing them outside and burning them.

4)Having taken the pets outside, Make up the solution of Borax using the following equivalents (one cup hydrogen peroxide and two cups water first and then the 9 teaspoons or 3 tablespoons of borax put in last. let the borax dissolved) This translates for bulk production as:- The borax mange treatment is made by filling a five-gallon bucket with warm water and then adding a 200 milliliter bottle of three percent hydrogen peroxide. Finally add borax laundry booster until full saturation is achieved. This means when borax is added to the water, rather than dissolving, it sinks to the bottom of the bucket.

5) Hoover and damp dust everything using the above solution that has been recomended. Then seal all the relavant soft covered furniture (sofas), soft furnishings, beds and matresses and finally cover carpets with foundation plastic using duct tape to seal the edges.

6) Wash out a kitchen detergent bottle that has a squirty spray handle on it and fill it with the borax solution. In the yard, spray the whole of the underside of the dog or other animal, you may have to refil the bottle several times for large animals. when you have reached saturation point on the underside change the spray bottle over to the large sponge and use this to pour the solution on the animals back from neck to tail. Finally we come to the head and the moste sensitive area around the eyes. First put a drop mineral oil in the eyes, then use cottonwool balls dipped in the solution and go over the face very gently and very carefully around the eyes. Pay particular attention to the ears, the muzel and under the chin making sure that they are saturated down to the skin.

7) Lovely now the house is sorted and the animals are treated there is just the humans to attend to. Though dog mites including mange (dog scabies) cannot live and reproduce on humans for more than a few days they can live long enough to reinfest the animal when you groom or stroke it. So, I am afraid its the full body treatment for the whole of the family. You can uese any of the following, Derbac M, Quellada M, Lyclear Dermal or a 30 gram tube of 5% permethrin cream. Make sure that you cover every bit of skin area and under the feet and rub it into your finger and toe nails too. The human treatment should be done at weekly intervals. Do not use the same incetacide more than three times in three weeks. Of couse if you dont mind a tinted skin, you can easily use the borax treatment on yourself.

8) The borax treatment on the animal should be done every three to four days until the mites are completely cleared and then for ten days after the last signs are gone.

9) During the treatment period, all members of the family should handle the animals only when wearing rubber gloves. Animals should be trained not to go on any furniture during this time. Children should be discouraged from wrestling or cuddling the animal until it is given the all clear.

10) If you find that after this you or your animal is still showing signs of infection then you must enquire with your family to asertain who is not following the rules.

11) When your animal has been clear for ten days you can take the plastic off of your funiture and give them a good hoover. (Don't forget to wash the hoover and its pipes with borax before using it.)

Kind Regards

Stephan Toth"

07/15/2011: Diamond from Salisbury, Usa replies: "Stephan;I used the mineral oil on my cats eye's an they burned them(nothing serious)so I found another option I'd like to share, some one else had mentioned to use tripple antibiotic cream on eye's so now I use it on my kitten as well as my self an it does wonders. How-ever mineral oil is great for cleaning out animals ears. Good luck"

Ted's Dog Mange Cure

Approval Ratings
YEA (6)
NAY (1)

04/01/2014: Mama To Many from Tennessee, Usa: "Hi,

We just figured out that we have a goat with mange. It is near his eyes. We are using Ted's remedy with borax and peroxide, but I am concerned about getting it in his eyes. It this bad to get in the eyes? Would there be a safer alternative?

I am planning to use garlic internally and also put borax in the water.

I have read that I can use tea tree essential oil (1 T. per cup of water) on mange, but that doesn't sound good around the eye either.


~Mama to Many~"

04/02/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey MtM!

I've made up gallon upon gallon of Ted's Mange remedy and splashed it all over my face - into my eyes - with no adverse effects; in fact, I don't feel anything from it, no stinging at all. It might be different if you were to soak your eyeball in the solution for 10 minutes, but getting it splashed into the eye was not a problem for me.

A remedy that has a bit more 'body' to it would be sulpher powder with a carrier oil. Not sure if it would annoy the goat and cause it to rub its face and possibly smear the sulpher into its eye, however."

04/02/2014: Mama To Many from Tennessee, Usa replies: "Dear Theresa,

Thanks so much for your response and information. That is very helpful! I will let you all know how it turns out for Cinnamon. :)

~Mama to Many~"

12/02/2013: Thunderpaw from St Joseph, Mi: "My 8 year old golden has a serious case of demodicosis (adult onset) that we have been treating for about a month with no success. Has the remedy of borax and hydrogen peroxide solution been tried on demodecosis? Any success? If yes, do you follow the say treatment pattern?

borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solutionborax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution

borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution"

12/03/2013: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Thunderpaw!

Can you clarify please, if you have treated for 1 month with the borax/peroxide solution and no results?, OR if you have treated in another fashion with no results?

Next, I am confused by the formula you listed. I have treated juvenile generalized demodicosis with Ted's remedy with 100% success - this is the formula I used:

1 16 oz brown bottle of 3% solution hydrogen peroxide from grocery store.

I dumped that into a jug and then added 2 bottles of filtered tap water using the now empty brown bottle from the hydrogen peroxide, giving me 48 oz of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution.

Now, into the jug full of 1% solution I add 1 full cup of borax [from the laundry aisle at the grocery store]. Shake it up - there should be so MUCH borax in the solution that some grains remain and do not dissolve.

I then fill my bath tub with very warm water and set the jug in the tub; by the time the tub cools down enough to comfortably bathe the dog, the contents of the jug are nicely warmed also. Now bathe the dog with the shampoo of your choice and then rinse all the shampoo out. I drain the tub and when all the shampoo and water have drained, I plug it up again so it will again hold water. Then I shake up the solution in the jug and pour it all over the dog. I then use a plastic cup to scoop up the solution in the bottom of the tub and then pour that over the dog. Do this again and again, re-wetting the dog with the grainy solution, for at least 10 minutes. Next part: do NOT rinse the solution off the dog. Take your sopping wet dog and put him in a crate with no bedding; you want as much solution to remain wet on the dog while he sits in the crate - give it another half an hour in the crate to allow the solution to 'work'. After half an hour I let my dog out and towel dry, and then let him shake the grains of borax out of his coat. It helps to turn the heat up in the house so the dog isn't freezing while sitting wet in the crate. I have doubled the batch of solution simply because its so inexpensive and it makes it easier to saturate a big dog.

You should dip your dog in this solution every other day - 2 to 3 times the first week; after the first week do once per week for 8 weeks. If you have a black dog the coat will bleach to a reddish hue due to the bleaching nature of the peroxide.

The dip should work be it juvenile demodex or adult onset; the mite is the same mite. However with adult onset demodex an underlying disease condition affecting the immune system is at play; removing the mites will bring your pet relief, but the illness that depressed the immune system to allow the mites to over grow still remains and will need to be diagnosed and addressed."

[YEA]  11/05/2013: Matross from Coobowie Australia: "Today is the 2nd wash my pet dog (muttley an American Pit Bull) has had in 3 days. Hydrogen Peroxide has been too expensive to buy in any event I have not been able in isolated rural to purchase larger amounts, and as Hydrogen Perixide or vinegar is the vessle for getting Borax through my dogs skin I have purchased 2 litre bottles of vinegar and if I may make comment for what it is worth from personal observation, the Borax/Vinegar remedy from the outset has been very effective against Demodex mange, Muttley has stopped scratching a complete turnaround , I intend to continue the treatment METHOD: In a metal bowl I empty 1 to 2 litres of vinegar and heat on the stove (this raises the solubility of borax in solution= more potent)and add and stir 250 -300 grams of Borax. After showering Muttley thoroughly with shampoo and scubbed with a soft brush and rinsed, the Borax /vinegar solution is applied thoroughly, and left to dry naturally (No Towels) Note : the small bottle of 3% 100 ml Hydrogen Peroxide is kept in my medical tool kit is used if ever Muttley were to eat poison. Hydrogen Peroxide is used to induce vommitting (apply 1ml to 1 kilo body weight DYOR) Cudos to Ted from Malaysia for sharing his research and remedy"

11/05/2013: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Matross!

Whoo hoo for APBT Muttley!

Now that you have seen a drastic improvement, you may wish to cut back bathing to bathing 1x week for 8 weeks. The mite lifecycle is about 21 days, and so you want to treat once per week for at least 3 weeks, and then a few more weeks after your dog seemed cured to ensure the mites have been eliminated. Remember - Ted indicates that the borax solution be a saturated solution, so keep heating and stirring until the grains fail to dissolve to create the proper strength solution.

I like using the hydrogen peroxide to induce vomitting too; these bulldawgs are just so naughty they seem to get into *everything*! Do consider keeping activated charcoal [available at drug stores, or aquarium stores] on hand in cases of poisoning where vomitting is not indicated. "

10/21/2013: Summer from Freeport, Tx: "I'm sorry, but I'm not a whiz when it comes to measurements and I'm still confused as to how much to mix the peroxide and borax to make a solution. Please give me in "lamen" terms how to mix the solution. Secondly, how is it applied when it's on my puppy's face and last, did I read correct that after you apply you do not rinse the dog? Oh and also, how long do I need to do this for? Many thanks!"

10/22/2013: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Summer!

Here is Ted's Mange remedy in layman's terms and I used it on my own puppy to completely resolve her demodex:

1 brown bottle of hydrogen peroxide from the grocery store [its a 16 oz bottle of a 3% solution]

1 box Borax from the laundry aisle [unscented]

I dumped the hydrogen peroxide in a big jug and added 32 ounces [or two of the brown bottle filled up twice] of filtered tap water. This gives you 48 ounces of a 1% hydrogen peroxide solution that is needed for the next step.

Next add 1 cup of borax crystals to the jug and shake. There should be undisolved grains of borax in the mix - this is what you want to see. Now you have a jug of cold solution -I filled my tub with hot water and rested the jug in the tub; when the solution inside the jug was nice and warm, the tub was cool enough to bathe my dog, so I bathed her in doggy shampoo and then rinsed well, and pulled the plug on the tub. When the tub was empty I plugged it up again and poured the grainy solution over my dog. I then used a plastic cup to scoop up the solution and kept pouring the solution over her again and again and again. You can use a wash cloth to sop up the solution to apply to your dogs face. I have had it splashed about and got it in my own eyes - it didn't feel like anything, so its safe if you should splash it in yours or your puppy's eyes. After about 10 minutes of pouring the solution over her I let her drip off in the tub and then DO NOT RINSE. I picked her up bare handed and then I crated her in an empty crate without bedding and let her sit for another half an hour to let the solution 'work', and then after that I let her out to romp around and work herself dry. So you do NOT rinse, you leave the solution on to drip dry until the next dip.

The first bath may result in a massive mite die-off so it may *appear* that the condition temporarily worsens, and so on my puppy one area did seem to appear a bit angry the next day. But other than that initial die off all I saw was improvment week by week as the dark angry patches turned to pale pink and then faded away to normal skin.

I treated once per week for 10 weeks - this past the time that I saw what appeared to be a complete resolution to her condition. I did the extra treatments only because the standard veterinary protocol suggested continued treatment after the condition appeared to resolve using Ivermectin and Amitraz.

I have never seen such an effective home remedy. Two thumbs UP to Ted from Bangkok!

NOTE: I understood from the notes that its best to make the 1% solution first rather than dumping the borax and 3% hydrogen peroxide in together and then adding 32 ounces of water to make the needed dilution as this approach will somehow result in a weaker solution. Its in the feedback, but I can't tell you *where*! ""

[YEA]  10/20/2013: Tammy from Dallas,tx: "Re: Ted's Dog Mange Cure... I was skeptical but have an old German shepherd with demodectic mange. Could not afford treatments. I used this twice ten days apart and noticing huge difference. Dog was almost completely bald but now growing hair back."

[YEA]  10/10/2013: Theresa from Mpls., Mn: "Add another YEA! For Ted's Mange Cure!

I found this site searching for an alternative solution to Amitraz/Mitaban and Ivermectin for Demodetic mange/ canine demodicosis.

I am no stranger to demodex but it had been awhile since I had had to deal with it; while the thinking has changed about it - now its not considered an inherited condition so much but rather mainly a nutritional and stress related condition - the 'cures' remained the same: highly toxic. My puppy had the deep, dark angry red patches on her skin [hence 'red' mange], and the hair in those areas was thinning out and the areas started to look scabby. In a litter of 8, all had been seen by various veterinarians and skin scraped to confirm demodex; my puppy was not scraped but I have seen it before and with 7 pups confirmed I did not feel like I needed my puppy scraped [creating open sores] to confirm what I already knew. When I compared my puppy to the vet scraped puppies who were all being treated with Ivermectin mine was the worst of the lot.

I tried Ted from Bangkok's Mange cure and can't say recommend it enough!

Faithful dipping - once per week for 8-10 weeks - has resulted in a complete resolution of my puppy's demodex.

I first read through all the pages for mange and mange cures and feedback and jotted down the formula and then translated from liters to ounces to arrive at this formula:

1 brown bottle of hydrogen peroxide from the grocery store [its a 16 oz bottle of a 3% solution]

1 box Borax from the laundry aisle [unscented]

I dumped the hydrogen peroxide in a big jug and added 32 ounces [or two of the brown bottle filled up twice] of filtered tap water. This gives you 48 ounces of a 1% hydrogen peroxide solution that is needed for the next step.

Next add 1 cup of borax crystals to the jug and shake. There should be undisolved grains of borax in the mix - this is what you want to see. Now you have a jug of cold solution -I filled my tub with hot water and rested the jug in the tub; when the solution inside the jug was nice and warm, the tub was cool enough to bathe my dog, so I bathed her in doggy shampoo and then rinsed well, and pulled the plug on the tub. When the tub was empty I plugged it up again and poured the grainy solution over my dog. I then used a plastic cup to scoop up the solution and kept pouring the solution over her again and again and again. After about 10 minutes I crated her in an empty crate without bedding and let her sit for another half an hour, and then after that I let her out to romp around and work herself dry.

The first dip resulted in a frisky puppy! Where had that energy gone? It gave me a clue that she had not felt very well even though I thought she had normal energy. And her skin; it was a deep pink before the dip and now it was paler and noticeably calmer. And all it took was dipping her in what basically amounted to skinny dipping in the salty ocean!

I continued treatments on a weekly basis. I understood that a massive mite die-off might result in the condition to temporarily worsen, and so one area did seem to appear a bit angry the next day. But other than that initial die off all I saw was improvment week by week as the dark angry patches turned to pale pink and then faded away to normal skin. In contrast the puppies being treated with Ivermectin got worse before they got better - again, likely as a result of the mites dying off - but it seemed like it took longer for those pups to bounce back; and no wonder, as the Ivermectin supresses the immune system needed to combat the mites.

I treated once per week for 10 weeks - this past the time that I saw what appeared to be a complete resolution to her condition. I did the extra treatments only because the standard veterinary protocol suggested continued treatment after the condition appeared to resolve using Ivermectin and Amitraz.

I have never seen such an effective home remedy. Two thumbs UP to Ted from Bangkok!

NOTE: I understood from the notes that its best to make the 1% solution first rather than dumping the borax and 3% hydrogen peroxide in together and then adding 32 ounces of water to make the needed dilution as this approach will somehow result in a weaker solution. Its in the feedback, but I can't tell you *where*!"

[YEA]  10/05/2013: Bigmoom from Brentwood: "I have a 6 month old Boerboel puppy, and when I first got him off of the plane from South Africa, via Texas, his black coat was very shiny, healthy and beautiful. After about three weeks I started to notice red bumps on the skin of his stomach and hair loss around his neck, head, stomach, and ears. I took him to the vet and they gave him a shot that made the red bumps on his stomach go away, but he still had hair loss and red bumps on the aforementioned areas of his body.

I started researching what his problem may be online and found that he may have Demodex. I was pissed that I had just paid $2500. 00 for a breeding male that I possibly could not breed later. I then went back to the vet and after a skin scraping it was found that my pup did indeed have Demodex. The vet wanted to charge me $170.00 per chemical dip to rid him of the mites, and told me it may take three dips as well as that the dips may not work.

Thank God I found Ted's remedy on Earth Clinic. I used the solution for Four Weeks and it cleared up everything. I believe the most important part of the remedy is leaving the Borax solution on the pup/dog after you're done washing them off. My puppy's coat is beautiful and full once again he is 102 pounds at 6 months old and a real head turner when I take him out.

I just want to thank Ted and Earth Clinic for saving me money, time and sanity. I would've been still spinning my wheels if it not for this information."

[YEA]  08/09/2013: Stefani from Madison Ms United States: "I never post anything on the Internet. I mostly just read. BUT. I rescued an 8 week old Pit/Mastiff from an abandoned home. When I first got him I noticed some red bumps and hair loss on his head. He was extremely malnourished and covered in fleas. I thought it was from the fleas and such a poor immune system. I took him to my vet of 22 years. She did a skin scraping and diagnosed him with demodex mange. Not knowing any better , I followed her advice and let her dip him in Mitiban. She also vaccinated him on the same day. I took him home and at 10:00 that night he was burning up with fever and lethargic. I called her and met her at the clinic where I was told his temp was 105 and he needed BENADRYL and antibiotics. She took him to the back and an hour later we were on our way home. The next morning his mange was now generalized, covering his entire body!! I noticed on the receipt she had given him a steroid shot the night before!!! Really ??!!! That shot literally FED the mites!! I called and was told to continue the antibiotics and come back in a week, and that the mange had spread because of his poor immune system. I went back the following and they repeated the dip (weakening) it this time. 12:00 that night same thing happened. We went back and were given a different type of antibiotics. I was hesitant to continue them because his immune system was already shot and the antibiotics were only weakening it. I started researching and found out that Mitaban should only be given to puppy's 4 months and older. Next trip to the vet I had already changed his diet to Wellness Core, a powdered multi vitamin, B-12, Omega3 , echinacea, cold pressed coconut oil and AC vinegar!!! Very costly and very time consuming to mix. He was feeling better but still covered in mange. She then suggested and sent me home with Ivermectin to be given daily AND more antibiotics. I have the ivermec and did not give antibiotics. Still NO results. I then tried coconut oil mixed with Neem oil that I applied after daily bathes. This seemed to make redness calm down and hair grow but he was still covered in red bumps and obviously still had mange. My vet at this point suggested putting him to sleep!!!!! What?!!!! Seriously??!!! She had been treating him for 11 weeks already and that was her advice!!!

I came across Teds cure and since I had exhausted all other measures I thought, ok , why not ?!! I bathed him in anti-fungal shampoo , really scrubbing his skin (sounds harsh but he was a trooper) I then poured Hydrogen peroxide over his body and it immediately started foaming. I mixed 3c Hot water 2c peroxide and as much Borax as would dissolve I poured this all over him , then massaged it into his skin and let him air dry The next morning I finally had a new puppy!!!!! He felt great, bumps had gone down 75% , and already had hair growing back!! He was a little dry so I applied the cold pressed coconut oil all over him. Goin to do another treatment tomorrow. I will continue his diet and vitamins to help boost his immune system. He will always get 2 tablespoons of the coconut oil(which he LOVES) I cannot say thank you enough for what you have done for my baby and for me!! This has been such a blessing, I wish I had read it earlier!!! Mitaban Ivermectin antibiotics steroids... They are all poisons that almost killed my puppy. Thank you so much for your help. One more thing, this treatment also works GREAT for fleas!!! Thank you again and God Bless!"

[YEA]  07/25/2013: Pamela from Pensacola, Florida: "After countless times to vet and hundreds spent on shampoos, medications, and treatments I was ready to pull my OWN hair out. Ted's cure thus far is doing a fantastic job. Even after first bath all four dogs stopped biting and scratching, never had that result with prior treatments. Finally they have some peace. I have been spritzing them with same cure every other day and also try to massage deep into fur/skin. I have found that running the Borax through an electric mini coffee grinder (exclusively reserved for this purpose) keeps the concoction better dissolved - just shake and spray. Many Thanks to you,Ted."



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