Last Modified on Jun 29, 2015
Among other things, your dog may be susceptible to mange – a condition that involves itching, scratching, hair loss, and painful sores. We, like you, don’t want your dog to suffer any more than it already has, which is the biggest reason why we’ve done the research to find ways to treat mange. But, the #1 most effective natural home remedy for mange in dogs comes from our expert contributor, Ted from Bangkok Thailand, who sent us this incredible remedy in 2004. Keep reading to learn the best way to naturally treat mange.
What Is Mange?
We believe understanding the condition itself is one of the most important steps toward treatment. That being said, mange is a common skin disease that is caused by several different species of mites. Your dog normally carries mites in its skin and hair follicles; however, when your dog becomes overpopulated with the parasites or is inhabited by a different kind of the pest, it can cause a mild to severe skin infection.
Three types of mange are common: localized, generalized, and demodectic pododermatitis. Localized occurs in one to two small areas. Generalized affects large areas of the skin or the dog’s entire body. And, demodecitic pododermatitis is situated within the foot and accompanied by bacterial infection – the most difficult to treat.
How Do I Know If My Dog Has Mange?
The earlier you identify mange, the better. So, knowing what symptoms to look for is important. While the symptoms of mange vary depending on which type of mite is present, several symptoms are common no matter the type. Some of the most common symptoms you need to look for to determine if your dog has mange are hair loss, bald spots, sores, scabs, and intense itching. You may also notice reddened skin and a rash or pattern of bumps on the animal’s skin.
Ted’s Dog Mange Cure
Treating mange is no easy task, but the famous contributor, Ted from Bangkok came up with a “streamlined” cure for the condition back in 2002. By following his extensive instructions, your pet should be mange-free in a few simple steps.
The treatment for mange is made up of three basic components: hydrogen peroxide, borax, and water. When combined in the appropriate ratio, these three components create an effective disinfectant for your dog. You should use this treatment to cleanse your pet’s skin as well as anywhere the animal has been sleeping, playing, laying…By disinfecting areas where your dog has been, you reduce the risk for re-infestation.
The peroxide serves as a natural disinfectant and cleanser for the condition. H202 works through oxidation by adding additional oxygen into the equation and creating an environment in which the mites cannot survive. To create the appropriate solution, you need 1% hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is most widely available in a 3% solution, so you need to add two parts of water to one part of 3% hydrogen peroxide.
Borax is a common household chemical. The compound is effective for killing insects and fungi. It also is a natural disinfectant. So, it can be used effectively to cleanse your pet’s skin and fur. For a more sensitive but still as effective form of borax, look for sodium perborate. Using either form, you will need 3 heaping tablespoons to add to the mixture.
Water simply functions to dilute the hydrogen peroxide and dissolve the borax. This component creates the appropriate solution and makes using the treatment that much easier. To create the solution, you will need 1000 cc of water.
For ease of conversion: 500 cc = 2 cups; 1000 cc = 4 cups.
To effectively utilize Ted’s remedy, you need to follow the protocol as precisely as possible. To begin the treatment, you create the cleansing solution, use it to wash the animal, and then disinfect other areas where the animal has been. It is important to remember not to wash the solution off of your dog or even to wipe your pet dry after rinsing it with the solution as it must remain on the treatment area to be effective.
Mix the Solution
To create the initial cleansing treatment, mix the water, hydrogen peroxide, and borax. The treatment requires 500 cc of 3% hydrogen peroxide diluted in 1000 cc of water. After you have mixed the water and H2O2, add the borax. Measure 3 heaping tablespoons of borax into your hydrogen-water solution and stir until the borax is dissolved.
Cleanse the Animal
After you have created the solution, use it to rinse the animal several times. You need to soak the dog entirely, even in areas unaffected by mange. Soak the animal several times and keep it wet for a period of time. You can use a pail or even a heavy sprayer bottle to apply the solution, but be sure to thoroughly cleanse the dog’s fur and repeat the treatment multiple times. Again, do not rinse the dog’s fur with water and do not pet the animal dry after apply the solution, as both of these limit the solution’s efficacy.
Disinfect Other Areas
After you have sufficiently cleansed the dog, use the solution to spray down and wipe the floors where the dog has been. Also be sure to cleanse its kennel or sleeping area. If it has pillows or blankets, dispose of them to avoid a re-infestation.
For the best results, follow this basic protocol, and wash your dog at least 1 to 2 times a week with the solution. Additionally you may try neem and mineral oil applied to the dog’s coat, but the borax-hydrogen peroxide-water solution is generally more effective. Adding a pinch of borax (no more than 1/8 teaspoon) to 1 liter of water for your dog also helps treat mange from the inside out.
Ted’s mange protocol is considered the top natural remedy for mange. If you are trying to eliminate mange in your dog, give this treatment a try and let us know how it works for you. Continue reading below for more information from Ted and feedback from hundreds of our readers who have successfully cured mange using Ted's protocol.
Mange Cure Photos
Two of our readers, Caren and LaDonna, sent sent us before and after remedy photos of their dogs. Click here to see the photos and remarkable recoveries from mange using Ted's Borax and Peroxide cure!
|Borax and Peroxide User Reviews||163|
Ted's Dog Mange Cure (Most Popular)
DO NOT CONFUSE BORAX WITH BORIC ACID!
DO NOT USE BORIC ACID IN PLACE OF BORAX!
Ted from Bangkok, Thailand writes, "The best cure for dog mange is to mix a 1% hydrogen peroxide solution with water and add borax. Dissolve thoroughly. Wash the dog with it once a week. Do NOT WASH THE solution left on the dog with ANY WATER. Do not wipe the dog dry. The solution will take effect on mange. The treatment period should not be longer than a month or two. The dog will probably not be resistant as the treatment is painless. This has worked well for me."
More Exact Measurements (excerpted from various emails on our Reader Question & Answer Section)
Ted replies, "A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found mites, or mange to have a large "beehive" hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the dog in a small area that is 100% sterile."
"Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus 1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near a 1% solution anyway."
"You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in a pail of water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated solution of borax. Add H2O2 to about 1% concentration to a pail of water. Soak the entire dog, several times. Keep the dog wet for some time. The borax will destroy the eggs from laying under the skin which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use this to wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this every week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog now no longer have mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try other chemicals such as sodium perborate, which is more convenient since you don't need to add the hydrogen peroxide."
"The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be applied AFTER the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate should remain on the dog after the bath. You will not rinse this at all. It must remain on the dog throughout the day so that it will act continuously on the bugs."
"However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is sodium perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus hydrogen peroxide) will work better then most other remedies I have tried, this includes mineral oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not kill the mange as effectively as sodium perborate) I have tried it. In my "mange colonies" and commercial brands to kill insects don't work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium perborate. Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange, but that didn't stop it. I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO, potassium permanganate, light fluid, etc. They all worked temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong statement that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium perborate) works bests and it is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas, and lyme disease (initiated by those crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side with neem oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents denaturation of DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life extension for dogs. For example a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar, and various sugar that causes accelerated aging in dogs can be slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when you do the borax wash. "
"Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that cup. Stir and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to dissolve. The formula doesn't require an exact science. The importance is to add enough borax until the solution is no longer soluble and well past saturation."
"...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG OF borax and peroxide solution with any shampoo or water. After bathing the dog, keep the dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This is why the dog has not improved. Also BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the 1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is added separately, otherwise the solution is too weak."
7/12/2006: "I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both by my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people have trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate, so I revised the remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution applied only once or so every week. The solution of sodium perborate hydrate is very much similar when borax and hydrogen peroxide is added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl peroxide.
The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you can use it without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if given beyond a 10% concentration. 5% is usually a safe concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of its toxicity is somewhat of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what it is in the original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax to go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to its limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For me a regular vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide has two similarities. It is both a penetrant and when added with a safe insecticidal material such as borax, which has an toxicity on LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the preferred method. However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.
Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic than borax. Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the equivalent toxicity to about that of salt. (check wikipedia). The idea is to make a solution of borax so that the solution can cover the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog to kill the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure powder will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it through the dog's skin.
In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of these have similar effectiveness, but in different ways. Neem oil prevents the Demodex fleas from laying eggs by modifying their hormones, while mineral oils are moderately toxic only to the demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them. However, both are very limited based on my tests in really killing the insect. You see borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs by drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited solubility and limited penetration of the skin which you need either vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be preferred.
Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has evaporated and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their eggs somewhat. Only a fairly concentrated solution works and it does not prevent re-laying of stray eggs by the dog. In other words, the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl peroxide, and vaseline will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are not just on the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that the borax powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the eggs even after the dogs no longer has mange and re-infection is therefore next to impossible. However, borax has limited effect on killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.
I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added to the dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at the same time. My dog for some reason likes to eat something like more than 1 gram of the sodium perborate crystals whenever he feels sick and the fleas just die off. The borax modifies the dog's blood and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax, i.e., sodium perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that destroys the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around throughout the house.
VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is that it has limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is not a penetrant, and therefore the frequency of applications will take at least once every other day. Additionally, the hair of the dog will prevent proper application.
Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with hydrogen peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax powder after bath. On the argument of being effective only as a spot treatment. Since dogs do not have sweat glands, not using a rinse will prevent the borax from absorbing into the skin to kill the mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need both borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread it to the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through the skin, such as vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide. A benzoyl peroxide is both a penetrant and insecticide, but at higher concentration is somewhat toxic for dogs and as a result you are pretty much limited by the maximum concentration not to exceed beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself at 3%.
I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that whatever formulation you use, always stick with borax and borax derivatives, such as sodium perborate monohydrate being the main insecticidal chemicals for the dog.
Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% - 0.2% to prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection areas. The second mix you need is always the penetrant and the third formulation is appropriate dilutions in water. To provide lasting killing effect, non of these chemicals should generally be non-volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most recommended are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal mixture as borax and borax can performs both killing the insect, modifying the hormones to prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach poison for the insect, and at the same time causes their eggs to dry up.
I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you use including hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited concentration), and vinegar. It must be noted that when formulating any mange it must be noted that they must be non-volatile and the chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the house so that re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.
I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange treatment, and hopefully other people will make a more effective formulations in the future at least equal or better than the original formula I have proposed. Just want to tell you that there are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of toxicity, re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and which is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is important, the chemical must reach the target demodex under the skin. Usually hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do that. It must be reminded again that borax, to work most effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it off, followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you wish. Any other application other than this such as using as purely powder form is NOT going to work.
|BETTER BUT WITH SIDE EFFECTS (5)||3%|
|BETTER BUT NOT CURED (10)||5%|
|WORKED TEMPORARILY (4)||2%|
|SIDE EFFECTS (3)||2%|
We have been treating our terrier for over a month with Ted's mange cure. He had it quite bad all down his back. There is some improvement but the die off has led to lots of scabs, which he is scratching and now has huge bloody scabs. He has a bath every 4 days and not sure he will cope with yet another set if I do the staph bath too. So, can I do the staph treatment as a daily application rather than as a bath?
Replied by Lizzie