Being overweight can be a health issue. This cat needs a good steady diet lots of activity to help it loose weight before diabetes sets in. coconut oil.. rub on her skin will stop the itch. but treat her for the fleas and prevent further damage this cat just needs your tlc. you dont want your cats to get lyme sickness treat for ticks and fleas.
I use the barn cedar pellets from Tractor supply, very cheap.no perfumes and doesn't make a mess like regular cat litter.I also put rubbing alcohol in a jar with a top, dip a flea comb in it and comb the pet.If there is a flea it slows it down so you can dip in the jar and kill it.
“Essential Oils Safe for Cats
Not all cedarwood oil is pet-safe, but some companies manufacture properly diluted cedarwood oil. These companies make sure to use oil from non-toxic cedar (namely Juniperus ashei), and take special care to remove harmful phenols. Like fleas, cats dislike the smell of cedarwood oil.”
Skin is a direct indicator of gut health too. But you are surely in the right path with the foods, since the gut symptoms have improved. Keep going!! It might take looong time before skin starts healing. Or at least it has took in my case. there is a product named Restore. It's humic acid and distilled water. it tightens the cell walls in the gut & intestine so particles that don't belong to the bloodstream don't leak there and cause allergy symptoms/intolerances. The Bottle is a bit expensive, but you only take it a little. I take 1tsp before meals, for dogs, cats and babies it's smaller dosage. It has helped me getting better and my friend and her baby it has helped a lot.
Ps. It's the same stuff that's they have for pets / humans. The only difference is price and dosage.
I just rescued a cat. the elderly owner passed in July and this cat has been alone except for someone stopping in to feed and scoop every other day since then. She has been pulling hair out, but that's not the issue because it should get better now she's with me. She was perfect from noon until 9 last night, then started scratching.
As I brushed her, I saw black specks but didn't see any actual fleas (so I need to treat all her soft toys and scratching post, can you tell me the best way?). She also is very dandruffy. I had put out the food that she came with, but she did get some treats that my cat was getting. Allergies? She's on Iams food, as is my cat. Also, I had put out that fresh step crystal litter, so could that do it? She came with a nasty cat box and a new box of arm and hammer litter, so I've cleaned the box and put that litter out for her. I"m going to see if I can get her in to my vet asap, since they had no clue about shots or any other health checkups and she's very overweight (30 lbs?).
Please advise. I don't have tons of money for special food or treatments and really don't want to give her back (terrible life! ), but will do what I can for her. I've had cats all my adult life and never had one that scratched like this. I do keep my cats on flea/tick monthly treatments because I get eaten up by fleas, and I know this isn't the best for the cat but either they get treatment or I don't have cats. And my cat goes outside and brings in ticks all spring and summer.
Thanks.
I also use products from springtime for my animals, bug off garlic is great for them, either the tablets or the powdered garlic, plus I buy joint tablets and also use them for our horses, springtime products will send you a catalog or you can purchase online as well.
Hello again,
I wanted to add a few other well known medical treatments for myiasis:
1. Apply an Ivermectin or Thiabendazole cream to the area 4 times a day. Rub it in very well. These drugs are anti-larval and will force the larvae to surface and kill them. Typically 1% Ivermectin or 15% Thiabendazole creams are used. Sometimes, the percentage of Ivermectin is increased to 1.5,2 or 3%. Often they will add DMSO to the cream to increase penetration or rub it on after the cream is applied to the skin; in which case, apply the cream twice. If the animal has sensitive skin they will use a VERSA base cream preparation.
Some animal treatments use Moxidectin both topically and/or orally.
Depending upon the depth of the infection and the species, it can take days to weeks or longer to entirely clear out all of the larvae. Some species lay more larvae than others and some parasitic fly species are very small and lay very small larvae. Bot fly larvae are generally larger and easier to remove manually.
A parasitic fly bite can look very benign but cause life threatening infections. Many fly bites look like small pimples which grow and worsen over time.
Myiasis wounds can vary radically in their presentations from a benign-looking bump or swelling on the skin which can enlarge & spread over time to something that is obvious in presentation such as a very large and painful lump with a puncture hole in the middle and exuding clear fluid or diluted bloody fluid (hallmark of many parasitic fly bites).
Many fly bites can develop a crust over the infected area.
Most myiasis infections will be painful to very painful if firmly pressed on.
The animals will feel like something is moving under their skin.
All insect bites should be promptly and adequately treated.
2. Large bot fly bites: clay or another strong & occlusive drawing salve is applied for a full day, 24 hours, to draw the organism to the surface and then pressure is applied to the sides to force the organism out. The problem with this method is remnants of the organism can remain to cause an infection or, there can be more than one organism in the wound. So, one must be thorough and monitor the area.
Good luck will clearing this infection!
Many have had success using a thick paste of 70% sulfur, pine oil and vaseline (petroleum). There are several Veterinary or farm salves that have these ingredients (e.g., NuStock). This paste has been used successfully on farms and by Vets for over a hundred years in treating myiasis/fly larval wounds and many other types of wounds and skin issues.
Leave the paste on for 3 days and keep it moist by covering it with plastic wrap & tape or use a moisture proof bandage to keep it moist and tape the edges to prevent the removal of the bandage. You may need to apply more paste during the 3 day period to keep it moist.
You can wrap the covered area with stretchy tape or gauze to keep it in place.
Make sure the paste extends past the infected area by 2-3 inches so ensure than you are treating all of the infection and to prevent the infection from "running away" from the killing agents.
After 3 days, wipe off the paste and whatever has been drawn out of the skin. Then, rinse and pat dry.
Repeat the 3 day paste procedure until nothing more is drawn out of the skin.
Pine creosote, pine tar, 100% gum pine turpentine, etc.... have all been used in various forms to treat these types of conditions because pine creates an anaerobic environment which forces the larvae to surface to the skin where you must remove them. Sometimes you need to use tweezers or serrated forceps because some of them hold onto the skin for dear life. They can have suckers, barbs, etc....
There are many other solutions that can force the bugs to surface to be removed.
For example, some people apply a cloth soaked in turpentine over the area and cover that with something warm/hot for a couple hours which can cause them to surface. Or, a cloth filled with hot salt and then turpentine applied to the salt cloth and left on for as long as needed. Repeat as needed.
Another way to remove fly larvae is to rub in "real" Diatomaceous Earth into the area a couple times a day. Eventually, all of the bugs under the skin will surface to be removed. Continue until nothing else is drawn from the skin.
Some people have noted that if you apply the DE quite generously after rubbing it into the skin then, apply plastic over this and then a hot moist towel on top, leave it on for a day, 1/2 a day, will cause the buggers to surface. This method works best after the infection has already been "opened up".
I know some have successfully applied several essential oils neat or lightly diluted to the area every 2-4 hours for as long as it takes until all the larvae surface. Can be days or longer.
Doctors are known to lance the area and physically remove the larvae. And, they will often give an anti-larval drug after the procedure (e.g., moxidectin, ivermectin, etc...).
NOTE: be careful when purchasing pine products (turpentine, oil, tar, etc...) because pine oil is one of the most adulterated oils on the market and can be synthetic and toxic. Much of it comes from China.
NOTE: some people will add additional essential oils to the sulfur paste: e.g., lavender, gum turpentine, eucalyptus, peppermint, orange, etc... These essential oils are all anti larval. There are others.
Or, they will apply one or several of the oils to the area first (can dilute) and then cover it with the paste. Add more of the paste and these oils as needed.
Wish you the best in treating your dog
Our dog has red skin underneath on his paws and he is biting and licking them a lot. I think it could be Pododermatitis from what I read. But I want to find a natural remedy if possible. We have him on Merrick chicken with brown rice. He is a male 16 month old bullmastiff. He also has been shedding a lot. He does get steak and chicken mixed in with his food because he is very picky. He does not want to eat his kibble without something in it. But he also gets cheese from time to time. Anything that might help him?
Shih tzu caught sarcoptic mange from another family member's dog. Been using this for 1 week so far and keeping dog isolated. He doesn't have sores, not itching much at all. How long would you say to give until he's not contagious anymore? I feel bad keeping him apart but I don't want to go thru this again as we're all healing from scabies from it.
