Ted's Dog Mange Cure - Treatment for Demodectic and Sarcoptic Mange

Last Modified on Jul 22, 2014

Among other things, your dog may be susceptible to mange – a condition that involves itching, scratching, hair loss, and painful sores. We, like you, don’t want your dog to suffer any more than it already has, which is the biggest reason why we’ve done the research to find ways to treat mange. But, the #1 most effective natural home remedy for mange in dogs comes from our expert contributor, Ted from Bangkok Thailand, who sent us this incredible remedy in 2004. Keep reading to learn the best way to naturally treat mange.

What Is Mange?

We believe understanding the condition itself is one of the most important steps toward treatment. That being said, mange is a common skin disease that is caused by several different species of mites. Your dog normally carries mites in its skin and hair follicles; however, when your dog becomes overpopulated with the parasites or is inhabited by a different kind of the pest, it can cause a mild to severe skin infection.

Three types of mange are common: localized, generalized, and demodectic pododermatitis. Localized occurs in one to two small areas. Generalized affects large areas of the skin or the dog’s entire body. And, demodecitic pododermatitis is situated within the foot and accompanied by bacterial infection – the most difficult to treat.

How Do I Know If My Dog Has Mange?

The earlier you identify mange, the better. So, knowing what symptoms to look for is important. While the symptoms of mange vary depending on which type of mite is present, several symptoms are common no matter the type. Some of the most common symptoms you need to look for to determine if your dog has mange are hair loss, bald spots, sores, scabs, and intense itching. You may also notice reddened skin and a rash or pattern of bumps on the animal’s skin.

Ted’s Dog Mange Cure

Treating mange is no easy task, but Ted has come up with a “streamlined” cure for the condition. By following his extensive instructions, your pet should be mange-free in a few simple steps.

Treatment Components

The treatment for mange is made up of three basic components: hydrogen peroxide, borax, and water. When combined in the appropriate ratio, these three components create an effective disinfectant for your dog. You should use this treatment to cleanse your pet’s skin as well as anywhere the animal has been sleeping, playing, laying…By disinfecting areas where your dog has been, you reduce the risk for re-infestation.

Hydrogen Peroxide

The peroxide serves as a natural disinfectant and cleanser for the condition. H202 works through oxidation by adding additional oxygen into the equation and creating an environment in which the mites cannot survive. To create the appropriate solution, you need 1% hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is most widely available in a 3% solution, so you need to add two parts of water to one part of 3% hydrogen peroxide.


Borax is a common household chemical. The compound is effective for killing insects and fungi. It also is a natural disinfectant. So, it can be used effectively to cleanse your pet’s skin and fur. For a more sensitive but still as effective form of borax, look for sodium perborate. Using either form, you will need 3 heaping tablespoons to add to the mixture.


Water simply functions to dilute the hydrogen peroxide and dissolve the borax. This component creates the appropriate solution and makes using the treatment that much easier. To create the solution, you will need 1000 cc of water.

Treatment Protocol

To effectively utilize Ted’s remedy, you need to follow the protocol as precisely as possible. To begin the treatment, you create the cleansing solution, use it to wash the animal, and then disinfect other areas where the animal has been. It is important to remember not to wash the solution off of your dog or even to wipe your pet dry after rinsing it with the solution as it must remain on the treatment area to be effective.

Mix the Solution

To create the initial cleansing treatment, mix the water, hydrogen peroxide, and borax. The treatment requires 500 cc of 3% hydrogen peroxide diluted in 1000 cc of water. After you have mixed the water and H2O2, add the borax. Measure 3 heaping tablespoons of borax into your hydrogen-water solution and stir until the borax is dissolved.

Cleanse the Animal

After you have created the solution, use it to rinse the animal several times. You need to soak the dog entirely, even in areas unaffected by mange. Soak the animal several times and keep it wet for a period of time. You can use a pail or even a heavy sprayer bottle to apply the solution, but be sure to thoroughly cleanse the dog’s fur and repeat the treatment multiple times. Again, do not rinse the dog’s fur with water and do not pet the animal dry after apply the solution, as both of these limit the solution’s efficacy.

Disinfect Other Areas

After you have sufficiently cleansed the dog, use the solution to spray down and wipe the floors where the dog has been. Also be sure to cleanse its kennel or sleeping area. If it has pillows or blankets, dispose of them to avoid a re-infestation.

Other Considerations

For the best results, follow this basic protocol, and wash your dog at least 1 to 2 times a week with the solution. Additionally you may try neem and mineral oil applied to the dog’s coat, but the borax-hydrogen peroxide-water solution is generally more effective. Adding a pinch of borax (no more than 1/8 teaspoon) to 1 liter of water for your dog also helps treat mange from the inside out.

Ted’s mange protocol is considered the top natural remedy for mange. If you are trying to eliminate mange in your dog, give this treatment a try and let us know how it works for you. Continue reading below for more information from Ted and feedback from hundreds of our readers who have successfully cured mange using Ted's protocol.

Mange Cure Photos
Two of our readers, Caren and LaDonna, sent sent us before and after remedy photos of their dogs. Click here to see the photos and remarkable recoveries from mange using Ted's Borax and Peroxide cure!

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Ted from Bangkok, Thailand writes, "The best cure for dog mange is to mix a 1% hydrogen peroxide solution with water and add borax. Dissolve thoroughly. Wash the dog with it once a week. Do NOT WASH THE solution left on the dog with ANY WATER. Do not wipe the dog dry. The solution will take effect on mange. The treatment period should not be longer than a month or two. The dog will probably not be resistant as the treatment is painless. This has worked well for me."

More Exact Measurements (excerpted from various emails on our Reader Question & Answer Section)

Ted replies, "A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found mites, or mange to have a large "beehive" hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the dog in a small area that is 100% sterile."

"Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus 1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near a 1% solution anyway."

"You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in a pail of water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated solution of borax. Add H2O2 to about 1% concentration to a pail of water. Soak the entire dog, several times. Keep the dog wet for some time. The borax will destroy the eggs from laying under the skin which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use this to wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this every week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog now no longer have mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try other chemicals such as sodium perborate, which is more convenient since you don't need to add the hydrogen peroxide."

"The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be applied AFTER the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate should remain on the dog after the bath. You will not rinse this at all. It must remain on the dog throughout the day so that it will act continuously on the bugs."

"However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is sodium perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus hydrogen peroxide) will work better then most other remedies I have tried, this includes mineral oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not kill the mange as effectively as sodium perborate) I have tried it. In my "mange colonies" and commercial brands to kill insects don't work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium perborate. Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange, but that didn't stop it. I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO, potassium permanganate, light fluid, etc. They all worked temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong statement that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium perborate) works bests and it is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas, and lyme disease (initiated by those crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side with neem oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents denaturation of DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life extension for dogs. For example a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar, and various sugar that causes accelerated aging in dogs can be slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when you do the borax wash. "

"Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that cup. Stir and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to dissolve. The formula doesn't require an exact science. The importance is to add enough borax until the solution is no longer soluble and well past saturation."

"...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG OF borax and peroxide solution with any shampoo or water. After bathing the dog, keep the dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This is why the dog has not improved. Also BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the 1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is added separately, otherwise the solution is too weak."

7/12/2006: "I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both by my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people have trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate, so I revised the remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution applied only once or so every week. The solution of sodium perborate hydrate is very much similar when borax and hydrogen peroxide is added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl peroxide.

The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you can use it without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if given beyond a 10% concentration. 5% is usually a safe concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of its toxicity is somewhat of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what it is in the original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax to go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to its limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For me a regular vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide has two similarities. It is both a penetrant and when added with a safe insecticidal material such as borax, which has an toxicity on LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the preferred method. However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.

Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic than borax. Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the equivalent toxicity to about that of salt. (check wikipedia). The idea is to make a solution of borax so that the solution can cover the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog to kill the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure powder will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it through the dog's skin.

In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of these have similar effectiveness, but in different ways. Neem oil prevents the Demodex fleas from laying eggs by modifying their hormones, while mineral oils are moderately toxic only to the demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them. However, both are very limited based on my tests in really killing the insect. You see borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs by drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited solubility and limited penetration of the skin which you need either vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be preferred.

Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has evaporated and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their eggs somewhat. Only a fairly concentrated solution works and it does not prevent re-laying of stray eggs by the dog. In other words, the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl peroxide, and vaseline will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are not just on the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that the borax powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the eggs even after the dogs no longer has mange and re-infection is therefore next to impossible. However, borax has limited effect on killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.

I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added to the dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at the same time. My dog for some reason likes to eat something like more than 1 gram of the sodium perborate crystals whenever he feels sick and the fleas just die off. The borax modifies the dog's blood and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax, i.e., sodium perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that destroys the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around throughout the house.

VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is that it has limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is not a penetrant, and therefore the frequency of applications will take at least once every other day. Additionally, the hair of the dog will prevent proper application.

Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with hydrogen peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax powder after bath. On the argument of being effective only as a spot treatment. Since dogs do not have sweat glands, not using a rinse will prevent the borax from absorbing into the skin to kill the mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need both borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread it to the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through the skin, such as vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide. A benzoyl peroxide is both a penetrant and insecticide, but at higher concentration is somewhat toxic for dogs and as a result you are pretty much limited by the maximum concentration not to exceed beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself at 3%.

I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that whatever formulation you use, always stick with borax and borax derivatives, such as sodium perborate monohydrate being the main insecticidal chemicals for the dog.

Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% - 0.2% to prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection areas. The second mix you need is always the penetrant and the third formulation is appropriate dilutions in water. To provide lasting killing effect, non of these chemicals should generally be non-volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most recommended are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal mixture as borax and borax can performs both killing the insect, modifying the hormones to prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach poison for the insect, and at the same time causes their eggs to dry up.

I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you use including hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited concentration), and vinegar. It must be noted that when formulating any mange it must be noted that they must be non-volatile and the chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the house so that re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.

I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange treatment, and hopefully other people will make a more effective formulations in the future at least equal or better than the original formula I have proposed. Just want to tell you that there are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of toxicity, re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and which is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is important, the chemical must reach the target demodex under the skin. Usually hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do that. It must be reminded again that borax, to work most effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it off, followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you wish. Any other application other than this such as using as purely powder form is NOT going to work.

07/19/2014: Debbie from London: "Hi, I have had rescue JR / Chihuahua for just over 3 years now. When we got her, she was appx 4 y/o, covered in demodex (was thought to have been allergies), permanently itchy, no hair on her ears and very little on muzzle and some other areas, very inflamed eyes (diagnosed with dry eye syndrome), underweight, no exercise tolerence, incontinent of faeces.

Vet diagnosed demodex and gave Advocate - every 2 weeks for 6 weeks, then monthly for few months. This improved demodex. Went onto raw diet (sorted continence issue - she is too small to contain the bulk of non-raw food needed to give her enough energy! ). Eyes I realised over time have many issues - allergy, dry eye (I think from demodex?), getting things in her eyes because she is so small (I now flush them with saline 3 times a day; sometimes she has rocks in there..and use Optimmune - tried everything natural can think of but this seems to help most as she no longer gets really sticky lumps on her eyeballs).

She still, though, had residual signs of demodex. When I look at her skin in the balder areas with a jewellers eye glass (inner elbows, tummy, muzzle, between toes) she has blackheads. And she gets itchy (could also be allergy). I have been doing the demodex baths (not as often as weekly) and using cotton wool pads to wipe mixture over those areas daily between baths, and she is now beginning to grow hair in areas I thought would be permanently bald! I wondered if the blackheads are casts of the demodex, or a physical reaction to them? Also, she would regularly get sores around her vulva, which was ridden with blackheads (I wondered if there could be a kind of hive in some areas?) and some sore patches on her skin with the same blackheads - these have all cleared up with daily wiping over with the mixture. I'm hoping that her immunity is now stronger, so that she will have more resistance to them returning.

I imagine that low immunity leads to the demodex taking hold, and in turn the demodex further lowers immunity?

Would definitely say this is a convoluted yay! The mixture is working for sure.

Very grateful for this website! Thanks, Debbie"

07/20/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Debbie!

I have seen the blackheads on some of my worse demodex cases, so I would agree that the blackheads are dead mites/reaction to decomposing mites.

Demodex in a 3 year old dog is a concern, as demodex typically is associated with an undeveloped immune system. That you have it in a 3 year old may indicate an undiagnosed underlying condition such as hypothyroid.

The sores on the vulva sound like yeast complications - wiping with Ted's anti-fungal/anti-staph will help, or straight Milk of Magnesia or Apple Cider Vinegar. You may wish to alkalize your dog's drinking water - to combat the yeast internally - by giving 1 teaspoon of baking soda into 1 liter of water; this is a crisis dose to be given for 5 days and then drop down to one half or one quarter teaspoon to one liter of water."

07/22/2014: Debbie from London replies: "Thanks, Theresa, for your help. I'm sure you're right about the yeast - have started using the vinegar as you suggested, will try the bicarb too.

She's actually about 7 1/2 y/o - was about 4 when we got her (riddled with demodex, with a strong kind of salami smell which she no longer has). I have had thyroid test, but only the basic one, not the one recommended by Jean Dodds (UK vet unaware of it) - test was pretty normal. But she does show quite a few of the signs e.g sensitive to temperature, dry coat shedding all the time (and the dry eye...)."

[NAY]  07/18/2014: Keezer from Australia: "After visiting an incompetent vet who spent 5 seconds looking at my puppy's bald patches then gave her a huge shot of steroids (the very worst thing you can give a dog with mange as it obliterates the immune system) my poor pup's localised demodectic mange became generalised, with bald patches spreading from her nose right down to her chest. At the time I had no idea what was wrong with her, our 'vet' had said allergies, so I took to the internet and had diagnosed her myself within about 10 minutes, it was definitely mange.

After going to a vet, paying him a lot of money and having my pup's condition made worse as a result, I decided to try Ted's Remedy. I had found it on lots of sites with lots of great reviews. Needless to say, I got rather excited! I went out, got the hydrogen peroxide and borax, then set to work. I followed the instructions to the letter; correct measurements, washed her first then soaked her in the mixture and left it to dry. After the first application my pup's mange seemed to worsen which I thought was a good sign as I'd read about a 'healing crisis' when the mites started to die off. We cleaned EVERYTHING with borax and vinegar, even the floors.

The next week we repeated, then the next, and the next. After about four applications we could see no physical difference, except now our pup was lying around and seemed miserable. She had begun scratching (demodectic mange shouldn't itch so this was a sign of a secondary infection). I decided it was time to visit another vet.

The new vet did a skin scraping and found it was definitely mange but that my pup now also had a bacterial AND a yeast infection - no wonder the poor thing was so unhappy! She was started on antibiotics but, by this stage, I had read so many bad things about invermectin and other mange treatments that I wanted to stick with Ted's Remedy a while longer. As soon as the antibiotics were finished my pup was scratching once more. One night I came home to find her entire muzzle raw and bleeding. After sitting on the floor with her with tears running down my face, I realised it was time to give up on Ted's Remedy.

Long story short (too late! ) she has now had one and a half shots of an invermectin-type treatment (sorry, can't remember the name) and already her skin has improved by leaps and bounds. It is now a healthy light pink instead of dark pink to angry red. All the horrible mange bumps are gone, her skin is very smooth. She has stop scratching and her scabs have healed. But, best of all, she has had a sudden burst of energy! We always assumed she was just a quiet natured pup but, now that she feels better, her true energetic nature has come out!

I know lots of people are keen to use natural remedies whenever possible (my entire skin care range is now made up of homemade, coconut oil-based products) but, when dealing with something that can become a serious danger to health, it really pays to seek professional help. If you're disappointed with one professional, as we were, seek a second opinion. If we had done that a couple of months earlier our pup would have been saved weeks of unnecessary suffering. Sorry Ted, this just wasn't for us!"

07/18/2014: Om from Hope, Bc Canada replies: "Ted also has a wonderful remedy for secondary and staph infection on EC. Theresa, one of our contributors, has always given very explicit instructions which are very helpful. You can find it easily on EC website, repeatedly.

Unfortunately, after paying a sum at one vet, for many people there is a dearth of funds. This is where research on EC is so valuable. Ted's remedy has great acclaim as is does work but when there is a secondary infection and the vet has not been forthcoming with help, Ted again has the secondary, bacterial, staph infection remedy which is easy to prepare and to find online at EC.

Ivermectin, according to natural doctors, is a cancer causing substance. Some people use it also for deworming but I have myself experienced at a shelter, that it doesn't work.

Theresa, one of our frequent contributors, has time and again given out the formula, saving much time in research for others. It just takes time researching which again saves $$. Good luck with your charge. Namaste, Om"

07/20/2014: Keezer from Australia replies: "Than you for this information. As I said, I try to use natural remedies whenever possible, in this case it just didn't work. I hope, once we are rid of the d. mange this time, it will never return but I will keep a bottle of hydrogen peroxide and borax just in case as I feel the remedy may have worked if we had caught the mange in its early stages (before the first useless vet got involved! ). I will look up the bacterial infection remedy too as I absolutely HATE using antibiotics but we were just so desperate!

Between our many vet visits, treatments and diet changes to boost our pup's immune system, those pesky mites have cost us a fortune! But our little furball is worth it :)

I love this site and will definitely be checking out the secondary infection treatment, thanks!"

07/14/2014: Ramelle from Almond, Nc: "Hi - Question about the amount of mange treatment to mix up at one time. I mixed up a full recipe but had some left over, pup is 18# mid size- he has generalized demodex mange, has had one treatment, is confined to a bathroom and is staying curled up in his bedding so don't need large amounts to spray down a kennel, etc. Will I be able to use what is left for the 2nd treatment this week? If not, will what is left be effective for cleaning? Pup looked better after one treatment. I am also using a super oxygenated water rinse on the days he doesn't get the borax wash. And, he taking Ivermectin. He was in bad shape so doing all that I can to get him back to a healthy state.

Thanks so much, Ramelle"

07/14/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Ramelle!

I've used plenty of this remedy but have never tried to store it. My **guess** is that the solution is active as long as the hydrogen peroxide is active - so perhaps 24 - 48 hours in a securely sealed container."

07/14/2014: Machel from San Antonio, Texas: "Background: I have two puppies. An 8 month old female boxer that we've had since she was 5 weeks old and a 4 month old male Pitbull/Lab mix that we've had since he was 3 1/2 to 4 weeks old. The 8 month old was healthy and happy, unfortunately my 4 month old, we found in a box outside a restaurant. We assumed he didn't receive the nutrients he needed to have a healthy immune system, however, the vet checked him out and said he seemed perfectly healthy. About 2 months ago we thought the Boxer got into a red ant hill and bit her ALL over her neck. We tried to treat it but didn't seem to get any better. 2 weeks after that, I started noticing after the male Pitbull/Lab mix ate or I took him outside he would scratch his ears, head and belly, lick his paws and breakout in hives. Also, he was losing hair on the top of his head and a few bumps appeared so I took both of them to the vet. The vet told me it was allergies, nothing to worry about but only put him on steroids. I knew better than to give them to him but I did anyway. He was potty trained but the steroids, within two days, had him peeing all over the house. Took him off of the steroids and then proceeded to put both of them on a raw diet hoping that would help with the "so called allergies". They are doing great on the diet but the top of his head kept getting worse. He was scratching so bad that it was making him bloody. Took him back to the vet, they did a scraping and told me it was mange (the Boxer also has it). Not wanting to trust the vet with their medications, I found "Ted's Cure". We're on week two and putting vitamins in their food. So far, it has worked wonders on the Boxer but taking longer on the Pit/Lab. Cleaned the WHOLE house like a mad woman and confined the pups to a sterile bathroom.

Will keep you posted with their progress.

Now to the question: Can I take them to the lake and let them play? They LOVE the water and seem a little stressed because they are now confined instead of running free. My concern is, will it make it spread even more, or set us back in treatment if I let them run around or get in the water."

07/15/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Machel!

From what you shared it appears your dogs have sarcoptic mange. The life cycle of the mite is 4 weeks; you might want to dip twice a week for the first 4 weeks just to be sure to catch any newly hatched mites and continue dipping once per week for another month or so after.

I see no problem taking them to the lake- sun and exercise are healing, but for sure bathe and dip them afterwards - to clean off any allergens, and to prevent another outbreak /catching it again."

07/10/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi : "I have a puppy that was very sick when we got her in January. She was 5 months old and weighed 2 pounds, malnourished and dehydrated and so weak she could not hold her head up. She would not eat or drink. My Vet put her on human baby formula, At least 1 oz every 2 hours, after 3 days she started getting some strength back so he put her on small amounts canned puppy food as often as she would take it. She had really bad dry skin and pussy sores all over her back which we treated with antibiotics and liquid Vitamins. At 10 months I now have her up to almost 6 pounds and she is starting be an active puppy but I know the "dry" skin the Vet says is really Demodectic Mange. She has it all over, even between her toes. I am sure this is what she has had all along. I started dipping her in the Borax, peroxide last week and she now can open her eyes all the way, her ears have healed and look better but her neck is still hairless. As the mite dies, how do they come off the dog? I use a soft toothbrush and I brush her and she just flakes. Is this the dead mite? I think I am going to have to rinse her for a long time to get rid of them since they have had 10 months to reproduce. I did it 3 times the first week and am now doing it 2 times a week and she seems to be getting rid of them."

07/10/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

The life spam of a demodex mite is 18-24 days. What this means is that you should continue to dip your dog for another 4 weeks after everything looks cured - so generally for 12 weeks. If you see good results you can go to just 1 dip per week. When you use the borax/hydrogen peroxide, the hydrogen peroxide acts as a penetrant to deliver the borax into the hair follicles; the borax is the miticide and its the borax that kills the mites. When the mites die, they stay right where they are in the hair follicle and dissolve; it is the decaying mites that can cause irritation. You may find that the appearance of the skin worsens before it gets better. You may find it helpful to make up a gallon batch of the remedy and simply stand your dog in a wash tub for 10 minutes to better treat the feet, as pododemidicosis can be very stubborn. Just be sure to follow the directions to a T - enough borax to the point it no longer dissolves and no rinsing or drying - let her air dry without any bedding in her crate for half an hour before allowing her out to shake off the excess and finish air drying.

You can address the flaky skin a few ways. Topical application of coconut oil with a few drops of essential oil of lavender; orally dosing with Oil of Primrose - 1 capsule am and pm; and you can also dose the coconut oil or other such oil such as salmon oil in the chow am and pm - one half teaspoon."

07/10/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "I have been making enough of the solution to put in a small cooler and I just set her in that, the solution covers her back and use a wash cloth to wet her head, neck and ears. I let her in it for at least 10 minutes and then take her for a walk around the yard in the warm sun to dry her. She is on Derma Form for her dry skin, it's Omega 3's and Omega 6's and vitamins, she is also still on antibiotics for the pustules. She only itches her neck when she has her collar on so that comes off in the house."
07/11/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

The pustules sound like a secondary staph infection - you might consider Ted's Anti-fungal/Anti-staph solution for one of your twice weekly dips.

Anti fungal/staph skin solution - you will need:

Milk of Magnesia [magnesium hydroxide]
Epsom salts [magnesium sulfate]
Borax [sodium tetraborate]
1% hydrogen peroxide solution

Mix 1 tbsp of MOM with 1 tbsp epsom salt and 1 tbsp borax into 1-1/2 cups of 1% hydrogen peroxide. Apply and do not rinse. This solution should knock out any staph infection or yeast infection going on in the skin.

Additionally the addition of 1 teaspoon of baking soda in one half liter of drinking water [this is a crisis dose] may also help and will calm problem skin in a matter of hours. Once the skin is under control, for long term maintenance use 1/2 tsp of baking soda per liter of water. If the 1 teaspoon of baking soda into one half liter of water tastes too strange for your dog, try diluting it to 1 teaspoon to three liters of water for the first day, then increase to one and one half teaspoon into three liters on the second day and so on. The crisis dose should be given 5-7 days before going on to the maintenance dose.


07/11/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "I wish I could add to her drinking water but she doesn't drink! I have to give her water and/or formula with a dropper. She refuses to drink anything from a bowl. I just now in the last month can get her to lick at the formula in a shallow dish but she won't touch water.

I will try the other formula even tho she is on antibiotics but this is the third antibiotic she has been on and this one doesn't seem to be working either."

07/11/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

Sounds like you have a really, really smart puppy on your hands! My BIL's dog would not eat out of a bowl for years and years - only ate if the food was on the carpet! Needless to say, he shampooed the carpet frequently!

Why is your dog drinking formula?

If you are feeding soft, canned or wet food water consumption will go down. I would try to get your dog to drink the baking soda water 3 x day - use a 10+ ml syringe if you have it and just tip her head back, put the nozzle of the syringe in the corner of her mouth and slowly depress the plunger. Some will drip out, but she will be swallowing some as well. You might also consider using a hanging water bottle - Lixit makes one for small dogs - and hang that in her kennel filled with plain water; she might surprise you by taking to it without any instruction! "

07/11/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "When we got her she was 2 pounds and very weak, our Vet called her a "failure to thrive" puppy and he put her on formula because it was high in vitamins and proteins and she needed the nourishment. After 3 days she started coming around a little and that's when we started the canned puppy food. I found out that the people that had her kept her kenneled all the time and fed her hard food and water from a large water bowl. I heard she almost drowned in the water bowl and she is still deathly afraid of anything wet in a large bowl. I have tried the water bottle, she won't touch it. I can make a small amount of the baking soda solution and give it to her with the syringe, she'll take it then. And yes, she eats soft puppy food, I have to have it in my hand before she will eat it, but just recently she will take it off the floor. She has a really hard time with hard food of any kind, I keep trying to get her to eat it but mostly she just leaves it sit. She has a double row of teeth, both upper and lower and has difficulty eating, everything gets caught in her teeth. The Vet said she is not healthy enough to have them pulled and they won't touch her with this "mange". She will be 11 months in August but she is just starting to be a "puppy"."
07/11/2014: Om from Hope, Bc Canada replies: "Pam from Shawano. Wi----- what I did about those skin flakes. I took a wash cloth soaked in diluted ACV. That needed done just a few times. It changes the ph and cleans the skin which can then regenerate. Only when that was clear, did I use VCO rubbing it in well. If the skin is bare VCO mixed with cold pressed castor oil works very well. I use it on my face and hair. When things begin to look good, spray with orange essential oil which is also used as a household cleaner. It sure kills any buggers and is to be preferred over poisoning blood for the fleas. It works well for me.

Namaste, Om"

07/11/2014: Om from Hope, Bc Canada replies: "Pam from Shawano. Wi ----three antibiotics! Now it will be very difficult to get the dog back on par. Believe me, I speak from experience. When the precious immune system is beaten down as it were with a sledge hammer which is the allopathic method, superbugs, fungi, candida find the door wide open. Recent research also says that cancer can then make its debut.

The immune system is GOD given and logic says to kill every bacteria, good or bad, cannot be holistic. I lost some rescue cats that way when I was not enlightened enough.

I would get off the antibiotic - they are anti life and give pre and probiotics daily to boost the immune system. Just prescribing antibiotics freely and leave it at that is tantamount to "I do not know how to deal or heal". Next one, please.

Health is a business, think about it and take charge, doing research on EC or wherever you find inspiration.

By now antibiotics and pharma meds are found in all the water ways, causing new diseases. The planet is polluted by them.

I hope you understand. Namaste, Om"

07/11/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "What is ACV? And what is a pre and probiotics. Please talk in terms I can understand. I have no idea what you are talking about. Yes, I will stop the antibiotics but you have to understand my pup's immune system probably never worked correctly. This in one of the reasons she has all these problems..."
07/12/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "She is a Min Pin - so small breed dog. I give her plain yogurt so that should help a little, will see what other kinds of food are "pre and pro bionic" She likes people food. I tried the water bottles all over but my other puppy thinks they are her toys and knocks them off. Plus there is a small water dispenser for the other pup and Josie won't go near it. I am giving her the soda water from a syringe a couple times a day and am going to do the other treatment tomorrow. I took her off the antibiotic, it wasn't working anyway.

I will cook a chicken thigh tomorrow and give her the bone - she likes lamb ears to chew on and she has lots of toys she chews. I think she actually lost a tooth yesterday so I am hoping that all those teeth are puppy teeth and she will lose them eventually, that is what the Vet thinks also. Since she is so far behind for her age maybe she is finally "catching up".

She is so much more active since I started the Mange treatment, I am thinking she is finally starting to feel better. That other person told me to do the ACV treatment but I am going to wait on that for a while if I do both the treatments (the ACV and the one for her pustules) I won't know what one worked. Besides she is really not "flaky" you have to either brush her or use your fingernail so scrap them loose. That's why I though maybe it was the dead mange coming off. The ones that come out are long, thin pieces and my fingers and the brush feels oily. If I had a microscope I would bet they were the dead mange. It doesn't look like a "dandruff" type flake."

07/12/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

Thanks for the background info! What breed is your dog - is she a tiny toy breed?

If this were my dog I would change a few things. I would hang the doggy water bottle or a few of them around at her level so she can encounter them in her environment and get used to seeing them. Then I would spice them up by putting attractive toys on top of them so she is drawn to them for the toy alone. And most important, don't pay any attention to the or her checking them out - turn your back and ignore! I would also provide a few interactive treat balls that you can fill with cubed cheese, vitamin treats or kibble. These toys will engage her brain and nose and give her an activity that doesn't require your hand for her to eat.

I would also give her a nearly raw, meaty bone. Depending on her size a chicken thigh bone would work, or pork chop bone, pork rib bone, or T-bone steak bone. If she is a larger breed then I prefer beef rib bones. I make these by baking the rack of ribs at 350 for half an hour; this leaves the bone raw in the center, the meat rare and the outside is browned up and flavorful. Given her 'shark mouth' working on the bone [trim most but not all of the meat off] may loosen retained teeth while she flosses and tones up her gums - and also the protein in the meat won't hurt either!"

07/12/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

Not Om, but since I am online, ACV is apple cider vinegar. The therapeutic stuff is raw, unfiltered, organic, and contains live cultures, ie 'with the mother'.

Probiotics are the beneficial bacteria that normally populate a healthy gut. Three rounds of antibiotics has decimated your dog's healthy internal flora, so you need to introduce new bacteria to repopulate her gut. There are special pet products you can buy - certain strains of acidophilus, but I find it is easiest to just go to the refrigerated section at the health food store and but what is on sale! And then rotate the brands so that you provide a variety of strains of bacteria. If nothing else a trip to the drug store for 'Shiff's Digestive Advantage' would be a start. Sprinkle on the wet food when you feed it - but wait adding it to her meals until she is off the antibiotic she is on."

07/13/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

I don't know what you are scraping off with your nails but it isn't dead demodex mites; I wonder if your vet could check them out? Scrape some out and drop them off for the vet to look at under the microscope - I'd be curious to know. Oily is usually seborrhea.

If Josie is super playful - what mini-pin isn't? - then lot's of tug-o-war is in order. A simple rag or old sock and you are set. You can also teach 'take it' and 'drop it' while you work those teeth loose!

Another thought on the water bowl would be a cookie sheet. The challenge would be to find gradually smaller and smaller sheets, and then to increase the depth of the sheets gradually until you go from jelly roll to brownie pan.

The yogurt is the right idea, but IMHO you pack more bang for the buck going straight for the encapsulated form of probiotic/acidophilus."

07/13/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "What is IMHO?

We do play tug of war with a sock and ropes. I use a small very swallow bowl now for the formula, which she will drink but if I put water in that bowl she still won't touch it. She smells it then walks away never to return...."

07/13/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

IMHO = In My Honest/Humble Opinion...."

07/14/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "Is there an address I can send pictures, maybe if you see her you'll have a better idea as to what I am talking about."

EC: HI Pam,

You can send photos to staff (at) earthclinic.com and we can post them in your thread.

07/15/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Do show the retained teeth if you can :-)"
07/15/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "When we got her this is what her skin looked like. No hair on neck and belly. her eyes were half open and the whiteish hair on her cheeks and the tips of her ears. The whiteish hair is what I was referring to when I said I can use my fingernail and scrap it loose. Then is almost looks like dandruff but it's oily.

This is her neck area today - notice ears are healed and eyes are open - less white around them and the cheeks have gotten better but the whitish stuff is still there.

I can't seem to get a good picture of the spots on her back - they were pussy, bloody pimple type spots and then the hair was gone on those spots, doesn't seem to be growing back in either."

07/20/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "Anybody have any idea what this could be, if it's not Demodectic Mange? She does not itch unless she has collar on. Any ideas as to how to treat this? The Mange treatments seems to be helping, the white areas around her face and eyes are going away but the neck area seems to be worse. Sorry could not get any clear pictures of her double rows of teeth both top and bottom, she refused to cooperate!"
07/20/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

Sounds like your min-pin has seborrhea:


Your dog's case could be considered 'secondary seborrhea' because it appears in connection with the demodex.

The bloody pustules on the back could be allergies or could be staph. If the scabs are healing over, I would give it time for the hair to come back.

I would certainly continue with the baking soda water as alkalizing often helps overcome some allergy symptoms."

07/20/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

I would offer the raw/rare beef rib bones for the shark mouth; chicken thigh bones are good for the molars, but for pulling out retained shark teeth you need sinew and cartilage, so give a beef bone or T bone if you can.

I think the itching with the collar is normal; I would make sure the collar is smooth on the inside, so there is no irritation caused by the collar. Do keep in mind that any attention you pay to her when she scratches only serves to reinforce the behavior, so ignore her when she has the collar on - she may quit the behavior in a few days if you simply ignore it. Can't hurt to try!

And I think you may be dealing with secondary seborrhea - I posted on it below."

07/20/2014: Om from Hope, Bc Canada replies: "Hi Pam --- it may be a simple thing such as disinfecting the collar and immersing it in the mite treatment.

Hope this helps.

Namaste, Om"

07/20/2014: Pam from Shawano, Wi replies: "So how do I treat the 'secondary seborrhea'. I gave her the Anti staph/anti fungal treatment, should I continue with this? I am also doing the Mange treatment 2 times a week now (it seems to be helping). I bathe her with medicated shampoo and have been rinsing with the diluted ACV. The sores are healed - just no hair yet. Plus she has not gotten any new ones since I started the Mange treatments. I have been giving her water with baking soda also. I gave her a chicken thigh bone and she shredded it in minutes. Will look for beef bone, all the stores here get boneless meat so no one has beef bones, even the restaurants use the boneless meat. Will keep looking for beef bone."
07/21/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Pam!

Please read up on seborrhea in dogs:



You mention bathing your dog in medicated shampoo; depending on the shampoo, you may already be doing what is needed to treat the seborrhea. If this were my dog I might continue with the anti-staph dips for another couple of weeks just to ensure the skin is truly clear from any staph or yeast infection.

The beef ribs don't sell as well as the pork ribs, so most grocery stores do not regularly carry them, but most stores are able to place special orders with their suppliers - or you might just cut to the chase and see if Pingels on Main Street carries them."

07/22/2014: Rachel from Austin, Tx replies: "Hello Pam! I feed my dog raw bones. I have given lamb and beef bones and plan to incorporate chicken as well. A holistic vet in my area has suggested starting dogs on chicken necks first, especially the smaller breeds. Feed them raw; there is no risk of salmonella to the dog (only to humans). I found the bones at my local farmer's market. Check with your local farmer's market."

[NAY]  06/26/2014: Joe from Wirral: "Is using distilled water alongside the hydrogen peroxide & borax essential to the effectiveness of the demodectic mange treatment?

I have been using de-ionised water instead but am yet to see any improvement in my dogs skin after 6 dips, thanks."

06/27/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Joe!

My experience with using Ted's Mange Remedy is that if after 6 dips - and I use filtered tap water to mix mine up - if you aren't seeing any progress you are not dealing with mange.

What symptoms, exactly, are you seeing in your dog?"

06/27/2014: Joe from Wirral replies: "Thanks for the prompt reply, I'm pretty certain it's demodectic mange. He was diagnosed with it 6 months ago after skin scrapings and was treated using a mitaban dip which did seem to work very well, although I suspect we didn't do enough of them to clear the mites completely and over recent months they've started to proliferate again.

His paws are balding red and flakey, his chest is balding red and warm to the touch and he has some boils around his muzzle but there is no itching or discomfort whatsoever - exactly the same symptoms as last time. I've also dealt with sarcoptic mange before so know it's definitely not that.

I just wanted to avoid sedating him for more skin scrapings at the vet and using the toxic dip again which will only suppress his immunity further. This seemed to be the perfect solution (which I still believe it is reading through the comments) when executed correctly.

I think I did read among the comments here that if you don't use distilled water the minerals in normal water will 'override' either the H202 or the borax, so to speak.

It's not that bad at the moment so I have time on my side before heading back to the vets, perhaps I should start again using only distilled, or filtered water?

Lastly, I was adding between 5-10 tablespoons of borax to the solution which seemed a fair amount, should that be enough? Thanks in advance..."

06/27/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Joe!

I think your problem might be the ratio - it sounds off to me.

This is what I do. I buy the hydrogen peroxide from the grocery store- it comes in a brown bottle, it is 16 oz, and it is a 3% strength. I get the borax from the laundry aisle - it should be plain with NO scent [not sure if they make a scented but just in case, you want the plain]. I usually have a gallon jug to mix in. I pour the hydrogen peroxide into the jug and I refill the hydrogen peroxide bottle with water twice [so add 32 ounces of water] and empty into the jug. You now have 48 ounces of a 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To this I then add 1 heaping cup of borax. You should see unmelted crystals of borax in the mix. If you do NOT see undissolved borax crystals in the jug then you are not using enough borax. So add the heaping cup of borax and MORE so the crystals stop dissolving; this is what is called a 'saturated' solution - and is the strength required for best results.

I usually fill tub with warm water and set the jug in the warm water, and then I bathe my dog normally with no special shampoo; I rinse well, and then pull the plug and let the tub drain. I use my hands to 'squeegee' my dog's coat to get as much water as I can out of the coat. Once the dog is hand dry and the tub empty, I plug the stopper in and then pour the now nice and warm jug of borax solution over the dog. I keep a plastic cup handy and use that to scoop up solution from the bottom of the tub to pour back onto the dog. I have a wash cloth that I use to sop up the solution so I can get the head and ears saturated with solution as well. Keep the dog in the tub for at least 10 minutes - the longer the better, 30 minutes is ideal IMHO. Keep pouring the solution over and over. After 10-30 minutes I put the soaking wet dog into a crate with no bedding and let the dog air dry for half an hour. During this time the wet solution is still working. Turn up the heat, cover the crate with a blanket - do what you can to make your dog comfy while you wait out the next half an hour. After that I allow the dog out to fully air dry and may rub down with a towel to work off the undissolved borax crystals.

If your dog is as bad as you say, I would use this stronger solution every other day for three dips and see if you see any improvement. When I did this my own dog felt better immediately - she got the puppy zoomies all over the house! Her spots of demodex appeared to get worse - that happens because the mites are having a massive die off - but then got better with each dip. I did three dips the first week, and then once a week after that for a total of 12 weeks. I continued dipping even after she looked 100%, this just to be sure I got all the mites as this is what the directions for the Mitaban say.

I agree - Mitaban can really jack your dog's immune system. You might also consider Pet Tabs or vitamin C to boost the immune system during this time. Echinacea boosted with C is also something to consider. I find these products not at a pet store but in the human health food stores or vitamin shops.

Finally, it would not hurt to alkalize your dog's system by adding baking soda to her filtered tap water. I start off with 1 teaspoon per 3 liters of water and then increase over 3 days to 1 teaspoon to 1 liter of water and give that for 5 days - and then cut down to one half teaspoon of baking soda per liter of water as a maintenance dose during the run of the mange treatment.

Try the correct ration/stronger solution and report back. I would not be surprise if secondary staph infection were present, and Ted has a remedy for that too."

06/27/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Joe!

The borax is a miticide, and hydrogen peroxide acts as a penetrant; using water with minerals shouldn't negate this process, however I would use filtered tap water as the chlorine may have an undesired influence to the mix - JMHO!"

06/27/2014: Joe from Wirral replies: "Hi and thanks again for the detailed reply! I definitely have the ratios correct: 2:1 water to 3% H202.

I have only been formulating 1.5 litres in total so the 5-10 tablespoons was actually quite a lot and there was definitely plenty of undissolved borax crystals left at the bottom, even of the dog after bathing!

I guess I'll just keep trying, I'll up the borax level and try and keep him in the bath a little longer, although I'm pretty thorough as it is as I'm a professional cleaner!

Secondary infection thankfully hasn't set in yet, it did last time so I know what to look for!

And yes, I've got him on a powdered vit & mineral supplement as well as an omega 3 salmon oil supplement to try and boost immunity, next is trying 'Origin' grain free feed. It's all rather frustrating!"

06/27/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Joe!

What kind of dog do you have, and how old? I have 25 lb frenchies and I can't seem to get out of making at least a gallon of the dip at a time.

In chronic cases of demodex there is often another disease component at play - does your dog have any other issues?

And Orijen may or may not be your magic ticket - I know when I fed it my dogs lost condition, got poor coats. We currently feed Fromm and switch around the various grain free diets they offer.

Do consider adding the baking soda to the water. Also consider a topical application of essential oil of lavender; dilute with a carrier oil such as olive oil or coconut oil - just a few drops will go a long way; you might also try a few drops in a rinse after a bath. Lavender is calming for the skin and some folks with demodex dogs have good success with it."

06/28/2014: Joe from Wirral replies: "3 year old Bull Terrier, so well known for skin issues, although as stated, I'm certain this is demodex. Yes I should probably make up more solution (which I will from now on) but I have assured I've repeatedly saturated him in the bath with what I had.

He's a rescue dog and the demodex first showed itself 6 months after rehoming. I understand it can indicate deeper issues but it can also take hold if the dog has been stressed, I.e rehomed, vaccinated, neutered and microchipped all in a short period of time, not to mention perhaps being fed an incorrect diet!

It doesn't seem to bother him in the slightest and he's perfectly healthy and happy in every other respect, which is why I was hoping this would work!

I definitely think diet is a considerable contributory factor as despite being built like tanks, they're very sensitive dogs!

I'm also going to switch to the apple cider vinegar as the H202 is bleaching his dark coat so much so people are commenting!"

06/28/2014: Joe from Wirral replies: "If I was to use vinegar in place of the H202 to prevent bleaching, would it be used at the same ratios i.e one part vinegar to two parts water or could it be used neat?"
06/28/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Joe!

I have never used the formula with vinegar instead of hydrogen peroxide, so I cannot comment on efficacy. I would think, after using vinegar myself to rinse a dog after a shampoo to neutralize any soap residue, that if there are any abrasions on the skin that it would sting; I know the remedy using the hydrogen peroxide does not sting my cuts when I am dipping a dog. IMHO a bleached brindle coat is a small price to pay for a cure - again JMHO.

I find it very odd that a 3 year old BT is breaking with demodex; again this is a sign that the immune system has experienced a major stress - however it might be a good idea to run blood panels to see if there is something else going on [and you mentioned your vet is waiting for test results so I assume this is what you are doing- looking deeper].

Do keep us posted!"

06/29/2014: Joe from Wirral replies: "I think you're right a bleached coat is a small price to pay, so I'll stick with the H202!

He hasn't had any blood tests as of yet, I know that's what the vets will want to do if I take him back. To be fair, he was never mite free in the first place, as I stopped the mitaban dips after the second skin scraping revealed a reduction in mite count from seven live adult to one dead nymph. Looking back now, I should have continued until we had the two consecutive negative scrapings needed to report a 'cure'.

Since the cessation of the mitaban dips 6 months ago I think the small remainder of mites we missed have slowly proliferated to bring him back to the same stage today.

Again, I strongly believe this is to do with a grain based diet and so want to give him some time on a decent grain free feed before paying for expensive and perhaps unnecessary tests.

I'm going to give him another course of full saturation, twice weekly borax treatments over 3-4 weeks to run the life cycle of the mite and if theres no improvement I'll take him back, although another diagnosis of demodex with no underlying issues will be rather frustrating considering the huge amount of positive results with Ted's treatment posted here!"

06/29/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Joe!

Demodex occurring in a three year old adult due to a grain based diet is pretty unusual. Sure, under stress such as rehoming - in a young puppy - is fairly coming, but three years old = look for something like hypothyroid - JMHO.

IMHO rather than doing twice the amount of dips of 3-4 weeks, you might consider dipping twice/three times the first week, and then weekly for a total of 12 weeks; this nails down the fully life cycle of the mites. If the feet are particularly affected, ie pododemidecosis - you might have him stand two feet or even one foot at a time in a small, deep pan for half an hour at a shot; this might help to resolve his poor feet a tad sooner.

Also consider alkalizing by adding the baking soda to his water - it can't hurt, and it might be just what is needed to help your boy turn the tide on the mites.

Do keep us posted on your results!"

06/21/2014: Calgal from Norwalk, Ca: "My 4 yr mix has a bad smell and is itching badly. She itches do bad sometimes she can't sit still.

Not sure if mange and I'm just don't have the budget to see the vet. I called him as we are regular clients and it will cost over a 100 just to run the tests on her."

06/21/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Calgal!

My feeling from what you described is NOT mange - more like systemic yeast infection.

Couple things you can do. Bathe your dog - daily for the first week if need be - in Ted's Anti-fungal/Anti-staph remedy.

Also add one eighth to one quarter teaspoon of Borax to one liter of your dog's regular drinking water. If your dog tolerates this well you could consider adding the same amount of Epsom salt along with the Borax; I would do this for 5-7 days, and then reduce to the Borax only in the smallest amount. You can also try baking soda - one teaspoon to one liter of water and this as your dog's only drinking water for 5-7 days, and then you can reduce to one half teaspoon per liter as a maintenance dose.

Lastly, look at what you are feeding your dog - read the ingredient panel on the food bag. If the first 10 ingredients are corn/grain or plant based, then the diet could be a huge factor in your dog's systemic yeast infection. Consider a RAW or homemade diet [google for recipies] or looking for an upgrade to the kibble you are feeding -try searching out diets at dogfoodadvisor.com.

Try this and report back!"

06/17/2014: Andy from San Diego, Ca: "Hello all. The vet diagnosed my 4 month old pup with demodectic mange and prescribed antibitotics and ivermectin. He also recommended a medicated bath done by the vet every 2 weeks, but I was reluctant to do so, so I resulted to this borax/hydrogen peroxide solution that I found.

I followed the instructions precisely, and today, her pinkish skin on her chest area is dark red. Is this normal? I also see that there are a lot of flakey matter on her coat. Please advise.

Thanks, Andy"

06/18/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Andy!

You don't say how many treatments your puppy has had- was it just one treatment so far? Remember that you need to treat for at least 10-12 weeks, and I usually start out by dipping every other day for three treatments the first week, and then weekly there after for 10 to 12 weeks - so continue treatment for another 3-4 weeks even though everything looks resolved and normal skin.

In my experience the dark red is typical - there is a reason why demodex is commonly referred to as "red mange" - and you are seeing it.

The flakey skin has not been my experience using Ted's mange remedy - and I have used it bunches. There may be other issues going on. What breed of dog is your puppy and what diet are you feeding?


06/15/2014: Jumbieman from Canada: "I have been using the hydrogen peroxide borax treatment on my dog for about three months and I cannot see any improvement.

When I first started I did the treatment once a week. There are times that missed. Last week I have stepped up to treating the dog once every two days and the dog appears to be getting worst.

What I am seeing visibly and extracting of the dog especially at the base follicles is what appears to be a waxy texture which actually adheres to the surface of the bathtub. It literally sticks to the tub and I usually have to use a hard spray or use my fingernails to scrape this waxy substance out. When I feel this on the dog, it feels like a scab with many follicles all clumped together. When I pull it out, obviously the skin breaks and there is slight bleeding. The problem here is that the hydrogen peroxide clots the blood and leaves a scar.

The dog has a sort of whitish semi-circle around it’s eyes and the waxy substance is most prevalent.

I have not taken the dog to the vet as yet but am planning to do so this week.

From what I have written, would this be demodex? Jumbieman"

06/15/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Jumbieman!

What you describe does NOT sound like demodex at all, particularly as it has not responded to treatment over three months.

The waxy secretions are more in line with Seborrhea. Do yes see your vet for a definitive diagnoses and report back what you find please."

06/27/2014: Jumbieman from Canada replies: "Here’s a follow-up to my post.

Took the dog to the vet today. Dog temperature was high normal. On examination was was found to have infected eyes and ears. Lymph nodes were swollen and vet assured that it was not cancer related. Did not want to commit himself to a diagnosis until he cultured some samples.

He took various samples including skin scrapings and some other samples which are being sent to the laboratory. He also took some samples for demodex which he was able to process in his office.

The sample for demodex came back positive.

He prescribed medication for demodex - Ivermectin different dosages every day.

For the other infections Zeniquin, Maxitrol, and Otomax.

He indicated to me that the dog’s immune system is completely out of quack and wants to wait for results of the samples he took. Since this is a long holiday weekend, he would not get back the results for another 10 days in which I have a follow-up visit.

In the meantime, I will try to help the dog’s immune system by using turmeric, garlic and wild fish liver oil.

I will keep you all apprised.

Thanks for all of your concerns. J"

06/27/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Thanks for the update J!

Please let us know of test results - very interested to know why the demodex is so resistant in your dog."

[YEA]  05/26/2014: Kevin from In: "Ted's mange cure is a godsend. I have a english bulldog who started itching badly and had a small patch of hairloss on his back. I took him to the vet, who said it was a food allergy. She was wrong, the condition kept getting worse, even when I changed protiens in my dogs diet. I decided to try ted's mange cure instead of getting the toxic dip from the vet. I did it twice the first week, then once a week after that just to be sure. It worked just like he said it would. His hair started growing back in 3 weeks, you have to be patient and get those pores unclogged before this will happen. The peroxide opens the pores and cleans them out. I also ordered some diatomacious earth from amazon to put on his hair and all over the carpet and floors in my house. I vacum it up every couple days. You need to get the food grade of diatomacious earth. It is non toxic to dogs and humans. This stuff does wonders for killing mites, fleas, ticks and anything else with a exoskeleton. My conclusion, be patient and follow the directions for teds mange cure, and it just might help your pet and save you alot of money in return. It is alot safer then that expensive toxic dip your vet will give you. Hope this helps."

[YEA]  05/23/2014: Jermaine from Ventura, Ca: "The Borax and Peroxide treatment works like a charm! I have an Akita who just recently turned 1. We went to the vet because Romeo had hair missing from his armpits and belly. We thought it was an allergy. The vet checked for mites but found nothing. The hair loss continue to progress all over his body and we had Romeo checked for S.A. It got to the point where the poor dog was miserable so I started doing research on-line to find a solution. Someone had gone through the same steps I had and insisted it was mites and recommended the Borax and Peroxide treatment. I mix 32oz of Peroxide 3% with 64oz of warm water. I then add 1 cup of Borax (the brand I use is 20 Mule Team). I put that into a spray bottle and apply after a bath with anti bacterial soap. I do this every 5-6 days. In 1 month his hair started to grow back. We are now at 3 months and you can barely tell that he ever lost any hair. This works!"

[SIDE EFFECTS]  05/22/2014: Yolanda from Quito, Ecuador: "I did the Ted's Mange Remedy for the first time today on my dog, Toffee, which had on her hairless open sores on lower back oozing and red. After applying the remedy, all instructions followed, the sores seems to be stinging much and she was like wanting relief and whining. Most posts say remedy is harmless and painless. But she seemed to be hurting much. Will it happen again when I repeat treatment? Please let me know what to expect next. Thank you."

05/22/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Yolanda!

I've used Ted's Mange Remedy countless times and it has never pained my animals. That said, my animals never had open, weeping lesions on their body during treatment. The hydrogen peroxide can sting a bit on open wounds, however in this case it would seem beneficial for your dog despite the stinging.

I have to ask - are you sure your dog has mange? Have you gone to the vet for a scraping to confirm mites? Many times hairless, open sores on the lower back are related to a flea infestation. It would be wise for you to explore this possibility and do what you can to eliminate fleas in the areas where your dog stays. Borax sprinkled on the ground will help eliminate fleas, and some find adding a small amount of Borax in the dogs drinking water also helps eliminate fleas [dosage 1/16 of a teaspoon into 1 liter of water]."

05/22/2014: Lizzy from Asheville, Nc replies: "Hi Yolanda, I agree with Theresa that you should get this diagnosed by a vet. It could also be pyoderma, something I am struggling with on one of my dogs. Perhaps you can look up both conditions on Google images and see if you can match it."
05/22/2014: Om from Hope, Bc. Canada replies: "Yolanda from Quit, Ecuador --- maybe you want to spray those sores with aloe vera or even with chamomile tea. I use UT with great results but not everyone does this. Then, you can mix turmeric with VCO and be not so sparingly with the yellow stuff. Later, you can clean the skin again with Aloe Vera. See how it works. If it is flea related, use orange essential oil as in household products. It works for me.

Namaste, Om"

EC: Hi Om, by UT, do you mean Urine Therapy?

05/29/2014: Julie from Pa, US replies: "Some dogs that have mange get a skin infection due to the mange which is the open sores . You need an antibiotic for that along with ted's treatment . I took my dog to the vet for mange and the medicine they gave him was a oral liquid and it almost killed him. The medicine caused him to become blind . the vet said it wasn't the medicine making him not able to see. Well, we stopped the medicine and he got his sight back. So we decided to stick to a safer way of curing the mange, borax, water and vinegar. Thankful for the internet."

04/01/2014: Mama To Many from Tennessee, Usa: "Hi,

We just figured out that we have a goat with mange. It is near his eyes. We are using Ted's remedy with borax and peroxide, but I am concerned about getting it in his eyes. It this bad to get in the eyes? Would there be a safer alternative?

I am planning to use garlic internally and also put borax in the water.

I have read that I can use tea tree essential oil (1 T. per cup of water) on mange, but that doesn't sound good around the eye either.


~Mama to Many~"

04/02/2014: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey MtM!

I've made up gallon upon gallon of Ted's Mange remedy and splashed it all over my face - into my eyes - with no adverse effects; in fact, I don't feel anything from it, no stinging at all. It might be different if you were to soak your eyeball in the solution for 10 minutes, but getting it splashed into the eye was not a problem for me.

A remedy that has a bit more 'body' to it would be sulpher powder with a carrier oil. Not sure if it would annoy the goat and cause it to rub its face and possibly smear the sulpher into its eye, however."

04/02/2014: Mama To Many from Tennessee, Usa replies: "Dear Theresa,

Thanks so much for your response and information. That is very helpful! I will let you all know how it turns out for Cinnamon. :)

~Mama to Many~"

05/14/2014: Mama To Many from Tennessee replies: "Hi!

Our goat, Cinnamon, appears to be cured! We used Ted's mange remedy several times over a couple of weeks. (But we didn't bathe her in it, she is too big. We washed her with it.) We also gave her garlic internally a couple of times a week. We also used tea tree essential oil. (1 Tablespoon tea tree per cup of water.) My son found the tea tree/ water spray to be the easiest. He did this a number of times over the last month or 6 weeks.

So, I am not sure just what worked or if all three were needed. But the mange is gone and the fur is growing back. Cinnamon is happy and so are we!

~Mama to Many~"

12/02/2013: Thunderpaw from St Joseph, Mi: "My 8 year old golden has a serious case of demodicosis (adult onset) that we have been treating for about a month with no success. Has the remedy of borax and hydrogen peroxide solution been tried on demodecosis? Any success? If yes, do you follow the say treatment pattern?

borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solutionborax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution

borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution"

12/03/2013: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Thunderpaw!

Can you clarify please, if you have treated for 1 month with the borax/peroxide solution and no results?, OR if you have treated in another fashion with no results?

Next, I am confused by the formula you listed. I have treated juvenile generalized demodicosis with Ted's remedy with 100% success - this is the formula I used:

1 16 oz brown bottle of 3% solution hydrogen peroxide from grocery store.

I dumped that into a jug and then added 2 bottles of filtered tap water using the now empty brown bottle from the hydrogen peroxide, giving me 48 oz of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution.

Now, into the jug full of 1% solution I add 1 full cup of borax [from the laundry aisle at the grocery store]. Shake it up - there should be so MUCH borax in the solution that some grains remain and do not dissolve.

I then fill my bath tub with very warm water and set the jug in the tub; by the time the tub cools down enough to comfortably bathe the dog, the contents of the jug are nicely warmed also. Now bathe the dog with the shampoo of your choice and then rinse all the shampoo out. I drain the tub and when all the shampoo and water have drained, I plug it up again so it will again hold water. Then I shake up the solution in the jug and pour it all over the dog. I then use a plastic cup to scoop up the solution in the bottom of the tub and then pour that over the dog. Do this again and again, re-wetting the dog with the grainy solution, for at least 10 minutes. Next part: do NOT rinse the solution off the dog. Take your sopping wet dog and put him in a crate with no bedding; you want as much solution to remain wet on the dog while he sits in the crate - give it another half an hour in the crate to allow the solution to 'work'. After half an hour I let my dog out and towel dry, and then let him shake the grains of borax out of his coat. It helps to turn the heat up in the house so the dog isn't freezing while sitting wet in the crate. I have doubled the batch of solution simply because its so inexpensive and it makes it easier to saturate a big dog.

You should dip your dog in this solution every other day - 2 to 3 times the first week; after the first week do once per week for 8 weeks. If you have a black dog the coat will bleach to a reddish hue due to the bleaching nature of the peroxide.

The dip should work be it juvenile demodex or adult onset; the mite is the same mite. However with adult onset demodex an underlying disease condition affecting the immune system is at play; removing the mites will bring your pet relief, but the illness that depressed the immune system to allow the mites to over grow still remains and will need to be diagnosed and addressed."

[YEA]  11/05/2013: Matross from Coobowie Australia: "Today is the 2nd wash my pet dog (muttley an American Pit Bull) has had in 3 days. Hydrogen Peroxide has been too expensive to buy in any event I have not been able in isolated rural to purchase larger amounts, and as Hydrogen Perixide or vinegar is the vessle for getting Borax through my dogs skin I have purchased 2 litre bottles of vinegar and if I may make comment for what it is worth from personal observation, the Borax/Vinegar remedy from the outset has been very effective against Demodex mange, Muttley has stopped scratching a complete turnaround , I intend to continue the treatment METHOD: In a metal bowl I empty 1 to 2 litres of vinegar and heat on the stove (this raises the solubility of borax in solution= more potent)and add and stir 250 -300 grams of Borax. After showering Muttley thoroughly with shampoo and scubbed with a soft brush and rinsed, the Borax /vinegar solution is applied thoroughly, and left to dry naturally (No Towels) Note : the small bottle of 3% 100 ml Hydrogen Peroxide is kept in my medical tool kit is used if ever Muttley were to eat poison. Hydrogen Peroxide is used to induce vommitting (apply 1ml to 1 kilo body weight DYOR) Cudos to Ted from Malaysia for sharing his research and remedy"

11/05/2013: Theresa from Mpls., Mn replies: "Hey Matross!

Whoo hoo for APBT Muttley!

Now that you have seen a drastic improvement, you may wish to cut back bathing to bathing 1x week for 8 weeks. The mite lifecycle is about 21 days, and so you want to treat once per week for at least 3 weeks, and then a few more weeks after your dog seemed cured to ensure the mites have been eliminated. Remember - Ted indicates that the borax solution be a saturated solution, so keep heating and stirring until the grains fail to dissolve to create the proper strength solution.

I like using the hydrogen peroxide to induce vomitting too; these bulldawgs are just so naughty they seem to get into *everything*! Do consider keeping activated charcoal [available at drug stores, or aquarium stores] on hand in cases of poisoning where vomitting is not indicated. "

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