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Fighting fleas sucks, but if you wage an all out attack immediately, it gets things in control. This is what I did, and it was very effective.
1. Bath the cat in flea shampoo. And SATURATE the cat! And let the flea shampoo set in the fur 5+ minutes then rinse.
2. AFTER the cat is bathed & dry, use a spot treatment like Frontline or Advantage. Don't apply this before the bath or it simply gets washed off.
3. Throw everything possible, that the cat has slept or laid on, into the wash with HOT water. Then completely dry it on high. It's the intense dry heat from the dryer that actually kills the fleas and dehydrates any eggs.
4. Use a spray, like Advantage Carpet & Upholstry spray. Spray the cats bed, carpets, sofa, chairs, anything that cat goes on. Fleas hate sun so a well lit room is unlikely to have many fleas.
5. VACUUM VACUUM VACUUM. Take a cheap flea collar, such as Hartz, and cut it into pieces and put it in your vacuum bag. Any fleas that you vacuum up then will be killed in the bag and you don't have to worry about them hatching & coming out. Vacuum 2x each day for week 1.
Also, an excellent way to tell if they are gone, & to kill fleas, take a white bowl, fill with a couple inches of water and add a teaspoon of dish soap. Set it in a room that has a lot of fleas, and put it on the floor under an outlet. Put a nightlight in the outlet above the bowl. At night, fleas are attracted to the light. They jump toward the night light, fall into the bowl of soapy water, and can't escape. Once you no longer are seeing flees in the bowl each morning, you can pretty much know your flea problem is in control.
If needed, you can completely repeat all the steps on week 2, only don't bath the cat again & don't reapply flea treatment as it can only applied once/month on the cat.
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When the wounds are healing, apply coconut oil. That's all that is needed.
Namaste Om
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BETTER BUT WITH SIDE EFFECTS
My Wheaton also gets ear infections that are yeast origin. That is also working. What I don't know is how often do I treat the ear? After I clean the ear, he shakes his head for about a half an hour.
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More and more people are realising that dog food and flea meds cause fatal diseases.
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(Mpls., Mn) on 02/21/2015★★★★★
For a spray, I use white vinegar and save the expensive for food use; 1 part vinegar into 5 or 10 parts water. In the water bowl it is 2-3 tablespoons per quart or same amount in the food am and pm.
If you are sure you are dealing with a bad case of fleas, consider a simple flea trap made with a small desk lamp and a white plate. Put the lamp on the floor in the area where your pet sleeps or spends a lot of time, and the plate under the lamp. Add water to the plate and then put a few drops of dish soap. Turn the light on at night and check for black specks in the morning. This simple trap can be moved from room to room and can quickly halt an infestation.
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There is also this stuff called bug arrest you can buy online. It's non-toxic and contains no pesticides. It has enzymes in it that eats the exoskeletons off bugs. It will get rid of mange, scabies, earmites and all other bugs.
Good luck.
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Where did you get your flea traps? Would love to know if possible to still purchase this type.
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EC: No, it's actually used as a topical treatment in the hydrogen peroxide and borax mange remedy for cats and dogs. You can find a cat mange page with posts in the pets section.
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(Mpls., Mn) on 10/28/2016
I don't use chemical flea products on my pack. I fight fleas by keeping grass trimmed in the dog areas to reduce their habitat. I will treat the dog areas with a simple green cleaning solution for odors, which also discourages fleas in those areas. I check my dogs for parasites regularly and use a flea comb to remove any fleas I do find. I use floor lamp flea traps in the house to catch any hitchhikers. If we go for a walk in the woods everyone goes into the tub for a bath and flea comb when we get home. If I *had* to use a topical flea deterrent I would consider an essential oil spray - google recipes for home made topical flea sprays using essential oils like cedar or geranium. Spray down the feet and feathering and under carriage before walks - fleas and ticks do not want to hitchhike on a pet that smells like cedar! I do think that a healthy pet is simply not as appealing to a parasite than an unhealthy host. So having your dog in top condition, on great groceries and on a rotating water schedule with baking soda to alkalize goes a long way at deterring fleas. I hope something here helps you! Fingers crossed for a killing frost [followed up by weeks of Indian Summer, yes?].
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(Mpls., Mn) on 07/23/2016
I used Diatomaceous Earth/DE. I have not used salt or borax for fleas; I cannot imagine the amount of salt needed to dehydrate a flea, and the borax needs to be eaten to kill the flea -so not my first choice in eliminating fleas from the home. My first choice is the lamp flea trap. I posted this on another thread and reposted here about using DE:
20 years ago I had many cats who went in and out - and in the fall fleas jumped on my many cats and hitched a ride indoors to wait out the winter - not fun! And since my cats lived everywhere in the house, everywhere needed to be treated - this is what I did.
I used food grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE) - it is light and cheap and 10 pounds will last you decades. I started with my bed room - I stripped the bed, and dusted the room wearing a face mask. I worked the DE into the crevices of the mattress, under the mattress, into the floor boards, against the wall where the wooden molding edges the floor - everywhere; the room was one billowing cloud of dust when I left and closed the door. I let it sit for 24 hours, and in the mean time I used another bedroom to sleep in. Once I had established a 'ground zero' I stood the mattress up and gently beat off the excess DE and again the room was a dust bowl. I gave it a few hours and let the dust settle and then gently swept up the excess, leaving plenty behind in the cracks and crevices in both the mattress and the floor boards. The floor was still very dusty - you could feel it on your feet if you walked bear foot. I then laundered the bedding and dried it thoroughly and back on the bed; no cats were allowed to sleep on the bed during this process, as to avoid re-infesting the room. I then did the second room and created another 'ground zero' space. Into this now cleared room went freshly flea bathed cats with sanitized liter boxes and all fresh laundered kitty bedding. The cats were not allowed to leave this room until treatment was completed. Then room by room I did the same - I dusted the couch cushions and put them into large plastic bags, dust and all, and let them sit for 24-48 hours. I had to put a bag over the electronics with moving parts to avoid getting DE dust in them as it is very hard on moving parts - in fact I am sure sucking up all the excess DE shortened the life of my vacuum cleaner. I left the DE sit for 24-48 hours - this a time frame I thought was sufficient exposure to any fleas in the area, and in the mean time washed every piece of bedding, every rug, anything the cats could encounter. I had carpeting in one room and I sprinkled the DE on and worked it deep into the carpet fibers with a broom. Again, wear a face mask as you will be working in a billowing cloud of dust that will irritate your sinuses and mucous membranes. After the wait time/exposure time was up I gently swept and brushed off the carpet, taking care to leave plenty behind deep in the carpet fibers and in all floor cracks and crevices; for under the couch and under the couch cushions I didn't even bother to vacuum, I just left it down - in fact anyplace that I could not see, or had to lift up furniture to get under, I just left the DE down. Doing all laundry at the same time is crucial, so I bagged up items until I could process them. A proper flea bath is crucial to the process as well. I used dish soap, starting with the cat in a dry bath tub [clip claws before you start] and started with soapy water and a wash cloth at the nose and worked from the nose outward; once I had the head and behind the ears saturated with the soapy water I then went on to the next cat. When all of the cats' heads were treated I filled the tub and did the bodies, again in the dish soapy water. I then drained the tub and used clear water with a cup of white vinegar to remove all traces of the dish soap and to balance the PH of the skin to avoid drying. You could see the fleas as black specks as the water drained. I followed up by blow drying the cats and flea coming. It was work, I was persistent, and the cats hated it, but I got them clean and clear and into the holding room they went while the rest of the house was treated. I want to say it took me 4 days to get the house treated and before I could release the cats. The basement and attic were not used by the cats so they were not treated. I did not have to treat the house again ever - and 10 years later I still found DE in the floor cracks. I made a point to stop letting the cats out in the late summer and fall until the first frost. I also dusted the cats with DE by putting them in a sack with DE - the head was out but it was snug at the neck so the cat was dusting ala 'shake-n-bake' style. By not letting them out during prime flea-hitch-a-ride-inside time, and by dusting the cats in the fall, plus the initial house debugging, I never had a problem again. I have since moved to a more rural location and have only 2 cats, and experienced fleas in my first year at the new house. I learned about the lamp flea traps and deployed 4-5 of them with great success: I firmly believe the lamp trap is easier to use, far less labor intensive, and just as effective as dosing the entire house in DE - or any other sprinkled substance. I suppose if you used borax or salt, aside from needing enough to penetrate the carpet and fill in the cracks, the process would be the same as I describe above using the DE. Now if I see my cat twitching the hair on her back as if she has the heebie jeebies, I dust the cat ala shake-n-bake style, and turn on the lamp traps.
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Fleas and ticks are a huge problem here. I just read elsewhere that adding brewer's yeast to their food everyday repels fleas so I will try that as well. Just no instruction on how much! Plus more frequent combing and brushing.
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Thanks, Candy in K.C. Mo.
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Your better choice for inside and outside is to use food grade diatomaceous earth. Safe for u and pets to ingest, but not death. Wear dust mask until extremely fine dust settles. Do one room @a time, so u can keep your pets from breathing airborne dust. Check internet. AMAZING STUFF.
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(Mpls., Mn) on 07/25/2017
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(Mpls., Mn) on 10/01/2016
It surely is flea season in MN right now. Try the lamp flea trap - I have them deployed right now and they are very effective at catching fleas that your pets bring into the house. Search EC pages for the details on the lamp flea trap.
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All of those essential oils you mention are toxic and can be fatal to cats. So please specify for dogs only.
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Try a few drops of 1/2 apple cider vinegar 1/2 water on the scruff of the neck twice a day for a week or so.
A bath with a few drops of Dawn or Joy soap if the kitten is infested may help also.
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You may have hit on the reason why the Cedarcide seems to have worked this time. I cooked squash in baking soda water and mashed it and have been giving it to my cat for about three days. Also have been giving her ACV and honey.
It could be the baking soda, squash and ACV and honey not the Cedarcide working against the fleas.
I am going to give the borax treatment one more try.
Patricia
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Also make sure you've thoroughly cleaned all the dog's bedding, and you've vacuumed all over your home! You may also research here on this site how to use food-grade diatomaceous earth to get rid of fleas.
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