Last Modified on Apr 17, 2014<< Continued from page 12
Ted's Dog Mange Cure (Most Popular)
DO NOT CONFUSE BORAX WITH BORIC ACID!
DO NOT USE BORIC ACID IN PLACE OF BORAX!
Ted from Bangkok, Thailand writes, "The best cure for dog mange is to mix a 1% hydrogen peroxide solution with water and add borax. Dissolve thoroughly. Wash the dog with it once a week. Do NOT WASH THE solution left on the dog with ANY WATER. Do not wipe the dog dry. The solution will take effect on mange. The treatment period should not be longer than a month or two. The dog will probably not be resistant as the treatment is painless. This has worked well for me."
More Exact Measurements (excerpted from various emails on our Reader Question & Answer Section)
Ted replies, "A definitive recipe is add 1-2 tablespoon of borax per 500 cc of 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. To make a 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1%, roughly get one part of 3% H2O2 plus two parts of water. Then apply them on the dog. Wash with this solution daily, no rinsing. If it doesn't go away, I have found mites, or mange to have a large "beehive" hidden somewhere. In which case, quarantine the dog in a small area that is 100% sterile."
"Approximate measurements are 1 bottle of 500 of 3% H2O2, plus 1000 of the cc of water, plus heaping 3 tablespoons of borax. Stir until most of borax is dissolved. The borax is past the point of saturation here so you will see some borax around. Technically the concentration is around 1.5% H2O2, and this is a bit stronger because by the time we finish with it, the H2O2 gets reacted with other things, and by the time we used it is is usually ends up near a 1% solution anyway."
"You need to get put as much borax until it no longer dissolves in a pail of water and forms a precipitate. This is a saturated solution of borax. Add H2O2 to about 1% concentration to a pail of water. Soak the entire dog, several times. Keep the dog wet for some time. The borax will destroy the eggs from laying under the skin which causes the mange. Get some solution and spray or use this to wipe all floors so the dog will not get re infected. Repeat this every week when bathing. This is not a perfect cure, but it my dog now no longer have mange. My dog was completely cured. You can try other chemicals such as sodium perborate, which is more convenient since you don't need to add the hydrogen peroxide."
"The solution (borax or preferably sodium perborate) is to be applied AFTER the shampooing and rinsing. The sodium perborate should remain on the dog after the bath. You will not rinse this at all. It must remain on the dog throughout the day so that it will act continuously on the bugs."
"However, I do recommend a less toxic form of borax, which is sodium perborate if you can find one. The secret is that borax (plus hydrogen peroxide) will work better then most other remedies I have tried, this includes mineral oil, neem oil (no, neem oil does not kill the mange as effectively as sodium perborate) I have tried it. In my "mange colonies" and commercial brands to kill insects don't work. Hydrogen peroxide DOES NOT KILL mange, I USED IT SIMPLY USED IT AS A CATALYST for ordinary borax in case you cannot obtain sodium perborate. Mineral oils simply prevent oxygen from reaching mange, but that didn't stop it. I have tried naphta, bentonite clays, DMSO, potassium permanganate, light fluid, etc. They all worked temporarily, and it just came back. I must make a strong statement that the formula (borax+h2o2 or sodium perborate) works bests and it is broad spectrum. You can use it to control mange, mites, fleas, and lyme disease (initiated by those crawly insects). I have actually compared side to side with neem oil, mineral oil, apple cider vinegar and others here in Bangkok and this is the most wide spectrum cure I have found. Borax prevents denaturation of DNA/RNA in dogs and I currently use this as life extension for dogs. For example a ribose sugar, deoxyribose sugar, and various sugar that causes accelerated aging in dogs can be slowed down with supplementation of dogs indirectly when you do the borax wash. "
"Prepare peroxide 1% solution, add 2-3 tablespoon of borax to that cup. Stir and wait for a couple of minutes for the borax to dissolve. The formula doesn't require an exact science. The importance is to add enough borax until the solution is no longer soluble and well past saturation."
"...The reason why it is not working is YOU CANNOT RINSE THE DOG OF borax and peroxide solution with any shampoo or water. After bathing the dog, keep the dog that way, no drying no rinsing. This is why the dog has not improved. Also BORAX is added DIRECTLY to the 1% hydrogen peroxide solution and no water is added separately, otherwise the solution is too weak."
7/12/2006: "I have reviewed all the dog's mange treatments both by my own tests and by many contributors. It appears that many people have trouble obtaining materials, such as sodium perborate hydrate, so I revised the remedy to hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution applied only once or so every week. The solution of sodium perborate hydrate is very much similar when borax and hydrogen peroxide is added. Some have either substituted hydrogen peroxide with benzoyl peroxide.
The problem about benzoyl peroxide is the upper limit by which you can use it without effect the dog as it is somewhat more toxic if given beyond a 10% concentration. 5% is usually a safe concentration. Benzoyl peroxide because of its toxicity is somewhat of an insecticide, while hydrogen peroxide is not, what it is in the original formulation is that it is a penetrant allowing the borax to go through the skin. Now some did not like hydrogen peroxide due to its limited supplies, so they make use of apple cider vinegar. For me a regular vinegar will do. Both a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide has two similarities. It is both a penetrant and when added with a safe insecticidal material such as borax, which has an toxicity on LD 50 equivalent to that of salt, this is the preferred method. However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported deaths associated with boric acid but not borax.
Boric acid is not recommended for use as it is much more toxic than borax. Borax's toxicity is about 3000 mg/kg, which is the equivalent toxicity to about that of salt. (check wikipedia). The idea is to make a solution of borax so that the solution can cover the entire body and penetrate through the skin of the dog to kill the demodex mites, for example. To use a spot treatment by pure powder will take an infinitely long time as it does not get to it through the dog's skin.
In some cases, people have tried neem oil, mineral oil. Both of these have similar effectiveness, but in different ways. Neem oil prevents the Demodex fleas from laying eggs by modifying their hormones, while mineral oils are moderately toxic only to the demodex eggs, not necessarily killing them. However, both are very limited based on my tests in really killing the insect. You see borax will both kill the eggs, modifying the hormones and their eggs by drying them all at once. The weakness of borax is limited solubility and limited penetration of the skin which you need either vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (toxic), MSM or DMSO solution. Ideally 10% DMSO should be preferred.
Pine Sol has limited insecticidal effectiveness, being a contact insecticidal, and does not provide lasting killing power once it has evaporated and does not kill living fleas, but it does kill their eggs somewhat. Only a fairly concentrated solution works and it does not prevent re-laying of stray eggs by the dog. In other words, the use of neem oil, mineral oil, benzoyl peroxide, and vaseline will not prevent the recurring of mange since eggs are not just on the dog, but can be anywhere in the house. Therefore re-infection is at issue. The one magic that borax has over its neighbors is that the borax powder that the dogs leaves in the house will kill the eggs even after the dogs no longer has mange and re-infection is therefore next to impossible. However, borax has limited effect on killing the larger mites and fleas, but not mange.
I found that adding 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water of borax added to the dog's water will cause the larger fleas to dry up and die at the same time. My dog for some reason likes to eat something like more than 1 gram of the sodium perborate crystals whenever he feels sick and the fleas just die off. The borax modifies the dog's blood and kills the mange inside out. This is why borax, i.e., sodium perborate, is required for mange, but not anything else due to preventive re-infection of the mange by the powder of the borax that destroys the eggs where the dog sleeps and where it walks around throughout the house.
VASELINE: The problem about using vaseline as an insecticide is that it has limited killing of eggs, but its weakness is that it is not a penetrant, and therefore the frequency of applications will take at least once every other day. Additionally, the hair of the dog will prevent proper application.
Some have went so far as to not use a solution of borax with hydrogen peroxide as a rinse then followed likely, perhaps a borax powder after bath. On the argument of being effective only as a spot treatment. Since dogs do not have sweat glands, not using a rinse will prevent the borax from absorbing into the skin to kill the mange under its skin. So this is not going to work. You need both borax as an insecticide, the water as the solution which to spread it to the skin surface, and a reliable penetrant to get it through the skin, such as vinegar, msm, DMSO, or even hydrogen peroxide. A benzoyl peroxide is both a penetrant and insecticide, but at higher concentration is somewhat toxic for dogs and as a result you are pretty much limited by the maximum concentration not to exceed beyond 5% being a preferred safety. I would prefer to limit myself at 3%.
I therefore suggest, not to get you lost in the woods, is that whatever formulation you use, always stick with borax and borax derivatives, such as sodium perborate monohydrate being the main insecticidal chemicals for the dog.
Pyrethrum is o.k. but in very low concentration of about 0.1% - 0.2% to prevent skin irritation for the dogs near the skin infection areas. The second mix you need is always the penetrant and the third formulation is appropriate dilutions in water. To provide lasting killing effect, non of these chemicals should generally be non-volatile insecticidal mixtures, which unfortunately most recommended are, with exception of perhaps borax and bentonite. Bentonite causes eggs to dry, so they can be used also, but they have no insecticidal mixture as borax and borax can performs both killing the insect, modifying the hormones to prevent egg laying, becomes a stomach poison for the insect, and at the same time causes their eggs to dry up.
I therefore will remain very flexible about what penetrants you use including hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide (limited concentration), and vinegar. It must be noted that when formulating any mange it must be noted that they must be non-volatile and the chemicals should cause microscopic residues around the house so that re infection of mange is prevented, including mites and fleas.
I think this wraps up the basic theory and application of mange treatment, and hopefully other people will make a more effective formulations in the future at least equal or better than the original formula I have proposed. Just want to tell you that there are many ways you can treat mange, but the issue is one of toxicity, re infection, toxic levels, which portion kills it and how, and which is the penetrant which is the key to it all. Penetrant is important, the chemical must reach the target demodex under the skin. Usually hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, DMSO, and MSM will do that. It must be reminded again that borax, to work most effectively, is to prepare a solution without washing it off, followed by a small amount of borax powder to be applied if you wish. Any other application other than this such as using as purely powder form is NOT going to work.
[BETTER BUT NOT CURED] 03/29/2009: Tammi from Alva, Florida, USA: "I have a small mixed breed dog - Lhasa Apso/Maltese/Poodle/Terrier? She is 10 years old and has had recurring Demodex mange for about the last three years. It is mostly on her paws. I have tried Mitaban dips several times, it works temporarily but then the mange returns. Most recently, I tried Ivomec and my dog had a horrible seizure. It was the most awful frightening experience I have ever had. I vowed to try an alternative treatment that would be safe for her.
I have been using the Peroxide/water/borax rinse for about 3 weeks now. I have been doing it about once a week. When I treat her, she does stop itching for a day or two, but then the itching returns and her feet get very red. Yesterday, when I tried to treat her paws, she wouldn't put her feet in the mixture and then she acted as if the treatment was stinging or burning her paws. I only left it on about 5 minutes and then I felt compelled to rinse her paws with fresh water so they didn't hurt. Today, however, her paws aren't as red and irritated as they were yesterday, and she isn't licking them at all.
Do I need to do the treatment on a daily basis for awhile in order to help her improve quicker? I am praying that this works - I can't do the Ivomec again and I don't know what else to do. Any suggestions would really be appreciated!! Thank you so much!"Replies
Ted from Bangkok, Thailand replies: "The premises has not been sterilized with borax and peroxide. Also the paws don't suppose to be rinsed. Normally a 1% concentration don't sting (except for higher concentration). Maybe there is a fresh wounds that caused the stinging. In any case if it does sting, with the resultant solution, the best way is to rinse with a borax solution WITHOUT the hydrogen peroxide instead, since a borax solution doesn't sting and just spray the premise with the borax and peroxide to prevent reinfection. Most commercial preparations for dog are toxic or neurotoxic, including the popular pyrethrins which leads to serious loss of appetite.
It's the borax and peroxide that is the safest I can find, so apparently proper application and procedures is the way to go.
04/01/2009: Peggy from Delbarton, WV USA replies: "In response to using the treatment everyday. I would. I hadn't paid close enough attention and was only using it once a week. If you can't then at least fix up a spray bottle of the solution, making sure you dilute the hydrogen peroxide ( one part peroxide ~ two parts water. I add the borax prior to adding the two parts water.) and spray this on your dogs paws. It will work slower but it will help."
[YEA] 03/29/2009: Lisa from Eugene, Oregon: "I used 1 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide, 2 cups of warm water and 3 tablespoons of borax. I cannot believe that my 9 1/2-year old Lhasa Apso is sleeping comfortably right here in front of my. Charlie has been itching himself like crazy which has caused him to bleed. I thought that his flea medication wasn't working and that he was reacting to flea bites but luckily my girlfriend mentioned mange the other day and then today it dawned on me that his black spots were actually spreading, that, oh, my goodness, Charlie has mange!!Like many others on this site, I have already spent $1,600 on trying to cure my dog of demodicosis (mites) possible food allergies, possible flea allergies, and a possible dermatitis with various medications, none of which are good for dogs in trying to cure the sweet little guy. Charlie is already on good dog food and I add Omega 3 oil to his food and another very nutritional supplement powder which is why I think he has had such a quick and fantastic reaction with only one treatment of the borax, hydrogen peroxide and water solution. I am so very, very grateful for this website. Charlie and I thank you both and to everyone else who posted their results."Replies
01/26/2010: Pug Owner In Alberta from Calgary, Alberta Canada replies: "Did you have to treat the couches and bedding and such as well? They live in the hair follicle so nothing I have read other than at this site has said that you have to treat the bedding and premises as well.
I treat my pug, who is 9 months old, the skin looks white again, and then they have moved, onto his feet, or his face. I am giving him an immune booster in his food as well. But do I have to treat the whole house?"
03/28/2009: Elaine from Phoenix, AZ: "Ted,
If my pets have SARCOPTIC MANGE, I understand to use Revolution from the vet on them, correct? But, what do I do about my bedding, yard, and ME...Do you know if the Borax or Boric Acid work on killing these horrific creatures? I have having a really tough time finding any information about cleaning up the surrounding environments.
Please help, soon!
04/01/2009: Peggy from Delbarton, WV USA replies: "When Ruff had sarcoptic mange he and Daisy were on the Revolution. I was never bothered by it and neither was Daisy. I did use ACV in a spray bottle on the beds and areas where he liked to lay. I also washed his bedding/toys in the washer with hot soapy water at least once a week. The revolution cleared it up but I think it was too strong for him (he was only 14 wks old) and he developed demodectic mange, which I cured using Ted's solution of Hydrogen Peroxide/20 Mule team borax and Water."
04/12/2009: Ted from Bangkok, Thailand replies: "There is a newer species or certain change in the behavior of these creatures. In that formerly they make eggs and live on the dog. Now their behavior has changed where they might leave the dog or eggs are now laid not just on the dogs but on surrounding environment. When that happens, the use of tannic acid solution or a preferred hydrogen peroxide plus borax solution is sprayed on to the area to sterilized them. During sterilization it has to be done a couple of times, but the dog has to be quarantined in the area during sterilization until there is no single eggs left over. That means it is sprayed with borax peroxide 4 or 5 times in the same area. During the quarantine the dog is dipped in peroxide and borax solution a couple of times before returning on the same spot again.
The major problem appears to be that most people do it this way. They dip the dog in the peroxide and borax. Then they let the dog run in former area. However the former area is infested so the dog get reinfected.
Another mistake is this: the dog is dipped, and the area is sterilized. What happens is either the dog or the premise is not all rid off. So if the dog has a few eggs left or the premise has a few eggs left, the dog becomes reinfected. That's because it takes time for the mange to die. It requires at least 5 days of frequent sterilization for this to work for a complete die off of both the dog and the premise. The dog and the premise has to be sterilized and the dog has to be in a different location, during the sterilization. To prevent reinfection. This is not a perfect scheme because most of the problem is the premise simply was not completely sterilized and then there's the dog where the mange was not completely killed. It's not a perfect formula. One addition is a flea collar be put in once the mange is gone.
03/26/2009: Jay from Cavite, Philippines: "Can you please send me a picture of the borax and h2o2 solution?
I bought the Borax at a Billiard's Store because I cannot find one in any of the supermarket's laundry and detergent sections and I used the 3% h2o2 solution.
I mixed 300 ml 3% h2o2 with 600 ml warm water then I carefully added the borax. The solution was milky white but there were a lot of borax lumps on the surface. Is this normal?
I dipped my puppy, Calyx, on this solution and he seemed to be doing just fine.
Your answer would be greatly appreciated!"
04/09/2009: Peggy from Delbarton, WV USA replies: "It should say 20 Mule Team Borax on the box. The box front is yellow with green trim. It has Since 1891 on the front top..It's also says "Natural Laundry Booster" and list the various multi=purposes on it. It comes in a 12 lb 4oz box . It is usually opposite of the detergents, top shelf and if you find it..buy two. It won't be there when you do go back. I always find mine at Wal-mart...not sure I'm allowed to say that but it is the old place short of a country store. Google it..I'm sure you'll find it online."
03/25/2009: Griselda from El Paso, Texas: "Hi, I suspect my dog has mange, so I started to read about it and came across with this site, I love all the positive feedback about this remedy and I am serously considering to apply it to my dog. I just have a few questions.
1.I have read that thera are 3 types of mange ( Demodectic Mange, Cheyletiella mange, Sarcoptic mange) I am not sure wich type my dog has, so my question is: Does this remedy cure all 3 types of mange?
2. My dog is old (9 years) is it safe to use this remedy on him?
I love my dog and I hope this can be the cure to his mange. THANK U anticipatedly for the help you all can give me in this matter."
[YEA] 03/25/2009: Carrie and Tom from Western Springs, IL: "After spending nearly $2,200 over the last five months, our fifteen month old German Shepherd (Dirk Reilly) had been diagnosed with just about everything: fleas, food allergies, seasonal allergies, bacterial infection, and now finally sarcoptic mange. The original one patch of missing fur was only about one inch in diameter when we first started treating him. Over time the one patch became two patches and eventually spread to his ears, tail, hips, and even an identical matching patch on the right side by his ribs. We had listened to everything the Veterinarian requested that we do, but nothing had seemed to work for Dirk. Knowing that he had highly sensitive skin, our local pet store suggest we begin adding salmon oil to his food daily throughout all the treatments. The salmon oil definitely made a difference, but Dirk was still scratching and biting. At our most recent visit to the Veterinarian, Dirk was prescribed (yet another) antibiotic along with three additional topical treatments for the sarcoptic mange. As frustration set in with yet another set of prescriptions, we decided to see if there were any other options for treating sarcoptic mange. After reading ALL of the feedback on Ted's solution, with much hesitation, we decided to try the solution on Dirk's sensitive skin. We used 1 cup of three percent hydrogen peroxide, added to two cups of warm water, and then mixed in three heaping tablespoons of borax. After bathing Dirk with a medicated Oatmeal (yummy smelling!) shampoo, we sprayed his entire body with the solution. Not wanting him to lick any of the solution off, we took him over to the park to let him run around and air dry. The next day, we noticed that all of the spots Dirk had lost his fur in now appeared to be extremely red and irritated. (sigh) Not knowing if we should continue to use the treatment because of the irritation, we made the decision to continue for one week, spraying him every other day and using the salmon oil consistently. It has been one week and we cannot believe how much of a difference the solution has made for Dirk - his fur has already started to grow back! Granted, he still has one more topical treatment to use, but we are completely convinced that Ted's solution has made a HUGE difference in treating Dirk. For anyone who is treating their dog for mange, we highly recommend using Ted's solution! We cannot thank you enough for making this information along with the feedback public."
[YEA] 03/21/2009: Joyce from San Francisco, CA: "3/20/2009 Friday (Joyce): I used the Hydrogen Peroxide, Vinegar and Borax on my Cocker Spaniel. I dipped my cocker in the solution late Friday night. Because I was nervous about using it I tested it on my skin. I then made the paste with only the Peroxide, Vinegar and Borax. I let this sit on my arm for about 30 minutes and it didn't burn at all so I knew it would be safe for my dog. I dipped her for about 10 minutes then covered her with the paste. (very messy). Since I did this around 10:00pm I went to bed but noticed she was scratching vigorously. Around midnight I coated her with vaseline however, she continued to scratch vigorously. I got back on line to read additional emails on this site. One woman said her dog appeared to be getting worse but around the second day she noticed improvement. THAT GAVE ME HOPE. So I gave my dog a dose of Benadryl and coated the area she was scratching the most with neem oil. Around 2:00a.m. we both got some sleep.
3/21/09 Saturday (Joyce): Today I dipped her again this time about 25 minutes (I didn't use the paste just the dip). I am writing this email TWO HOURS after dipping her SHE HAS NOT SCRATCHED NOT ONE TIME. Please understand, my dog has scratched almost every hour of everyday for months!!! I have spent so much money on Vets (I've taken her to about 4 different Vets and "The Specialist" nothing worked. Their guessing was costing me a LOT of money so I decided it would be cheaper if I guessed and I went searching online and I found TED. Thank you so much! I will keep everyone current on her progress. By the way my Cocker's name is "The Princess of Egypt" we call her "EGYPT""
03/23/2009: Ted from Bangkok, Thailand replies: "Dear Joyce:
A paste was used in case no tub was available for the dip. Technically speaking a dip is much better then a paste. However a proper preparation of a paste is not really needed. To make it a stronger solution a peroxide/vinegar/borax is applied onto the dog, a couple of times enough to kill it. This means the solution should stay on the dog for 30 minutes before the paste is applied. The old one I never actually did the paste, I simply make a solution and keep applying the dog long enough that the scratch didn't persist. A dip is much easier to control as we don't need to wash it a couple of times. Generally speaking a peroxide mixed with vinegar, with a borax is a more powerful formulation, which is called peracetic acid. In any event that formula would likely be a 1% solution of H2O2, in equal amounts with vinegar in volume, plus a saturated solution of borax, used as a rinse, but no water rinse where the paste is later applied, in case a tub is NOT available for dipping. In my case I had no tub, but a baby tub might be possible, but this can only happen with a partial dip. In any event a dip is best way to completely kill the mange by using the time as a method of measuring the lenght by which the dogs remains in the dip and hence is more consistent in its result. The estimated time for a very consistent and effective dip from my estimates was a 30 minute dip on the average, but won't work under 20 minutes. So apparently you mentioned of 10 minute dip may not work at the going concentration between 0.5% to 1% H2O2. That's because if you did mix a 1% H2O2 with equal mixes of vinegar, you get a 0.5% H2O2 instead. However a 2% H2O2 beginning concentration in equal concentration would get you 1% final concentration with added vinegar.
I generally don't use this powerful mix and usually go for a weaker ones as it might cause some skin irritation of the dog and I end up removing the dog after 10-15 minutes because of vast open wounds, which would irritate the dog. Hence a spot application or a lower concentration or less vinegar is where I make adjustment so it won't irritate the dog. Therefore I would much prefer to use a hydrogen peroxide 1% and borax as a 30 minute dip without the vinegar, but should itching persists I may add vinegar to make the mix more agressive. In any event vinegar is a good standby and dip is the better than a paste, if a dog tub is available, so I won't use so much of the vinegar and peroxide compared against a much larger bathtub.
Thank you for your feedback!
03/26/2009: Joyce from San Francisco, CA replies: "Thank you TED for your reply. I'm a little confused on a couple of things:
1) Should I completely submerge my cocker in the solution for 30 minutes in the bathtub or should I simply use a cup and pour it over her for 30 minutes in the bathtub?
2) Should I do this everyday or every 2 - 3 days?
Update: The underside of her ears are no longer red. The black crust on her neck is slowly beginning to peel off. Her scatching has substantially stopped and when I hold her in my arms her body feels calm. She is on the road to recovery!!! I will keep everyone posted."
[YEA] 04/10/2009: Joyce from San Francisco, CA replies: "Update: My Cocker is doing 80% better. She is happy, playful, calm and sleeps so peacefully through the night. TED words cannot express how much I appreciate you posting this wonderful informative website with information THAT WORKS. I am spreading the word. I spoke with the owner of the hardware store where I purchased the Borax and he's going to try it on his dog. Thanks again."
05/11/2009: Joyce from San Francisco, CA replies: "Update on Egypt. She is 98% cured she only has a nickle size bald spot on one ear. She is 8 years old is back running and playing like a puppy. I will now begin to dip her once monthly along with my second cocker, who by the way never caught mange (interesting). Once again TED, THANK YOU!"
03/16/2009: Agusta from Dubai, U.A.E.: "My 9 year old peke was diagnosed with cysts in his prostate and the vet recommended we neuter him, he was on Marbocyl for 3 almost 3 months from November 2008.
In Jan this year i noticed he had a ear infection omething he never had before, in addition he was loosing fur around his eyes and mouth and the skin was reddish and he was itching the vet said he had ringworm and gave him a vaccine,since the ear did not get better i took him to another vet who said it was a simple ear infection 3 weeks later i took him back and then the vet siad he had ringworm and prescribed intrafungol and a shampoo called micohex hich has miconazole nitrate and chlorhexidine gluconate. i used the shampoo once and then tok my dog back for a stool, urine, blood and skin test
The stool test said he had flotation mites and demodex
The skin test showed demodex present
Please find below report from the vet
''A summary of the abnormal results is as followsCheyletiella and Demodex mites seen in the fecal sample.Bacteria see in the urine sample - which was a voided sample collected from the floor. My advise subject to Dr Sandras approval is1/ Treat Trouble with Frontline/Protektor spray to eliminate Cheyletiella mites2/ Skin scrape the areas behind the ears to look for Demodex mites3/ Collect a urine sample by cystocentesis for urine culture to see if the bacteria are in the bladder or whether they were from the floor, sheath, urethra or prostate. There is no indeciation of renal disease at thsi time I am pleased to be able to reassure you''
I have stopped all their antibiotics the second ear has started an yeast infection
i have put my dog on a complete meat an chicken with brown rice and flax seed oil with grapeseed oil diet .
In additon he has APCV in his drinking water and twice a day i mis one capful of ACV with another capful of APCV and dap the infected areas, the redness seems to be drying up
Please please please tell me what to do i love my dog to pieces i just want him to well again these antibiotics are killing him HELP ME PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE"
[YEA] 03/10/2009: Lou from Sarasota, FL (USA): "I have just finished giving my 8 month old terrier-mix puppy his 4th bath, using Ted's Demodex Mange Cure (peroxide/borax rinse after shampooing)..it has worked wonders on our little guy! He had been on Ivermectin and a multitude of medicated shampoos, and nothing was working..he smelled so bad we could hardly stand to hold him, even right after a bath..the vet said he might always have this condition...well, Ted's Remedy proved him wrong! We noticed immediate improvement after the first bath, more after the second, and he appears to be completely well of it after this forth bath, but I will keep on it for a bit longer, just to be completely sure. I used 1 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide, added to 2 cups of warm water, mixed in 3 heaping tablespoons of borax (bought at local supermarket) and, after shampooing with a good medicated dog shampoo and rinsing thoroughly, I applied the borax/peroxide/water rinse over the entire body of dog, making sure not to get any into his eyes, nose, mouth or ears, and then LET THE DOG DRY NATURALLY..per Ted's instructions, I did not rinse the borax mixture off the dog, nor did I dry him with a towel, but let dry in the warm bathroom. He no longer smells, no longer itches, and his fur is beginning to look so much better. This was a miracle-cure for our pup..and I can't thank Ted enough for making it available to the public. Many thanks, Ted."
02/25/2009: Cedar from Zahirabad, India: "Dear Ted: Thanks a million for making this information available. I am in India and cannot seem to find Borax, but have just bought Boric Acid. I tried the recipe on my dog and it seems to have lessened the itching. Just want to make sure that Boric Acid it safe for him, since he licks himself after I have rinsed with the Hyd Peroxide + Boric Acid mixture. Many thanks. Cedar"
EC: WARNING! According to Ted's instructions section on the mange page, boric acid is toxic and should not be used as an alternative.
"...However, one should not use boric acid since there are reported deaths associated with boric acid but not borax." http://www.earthclinic.com/Pets/dog_mange_cure.html#TED
02/26/2009: ROBERT HENRY from TEN MILE, TN replies: "My dad used sulfur, boric acid and used motor oil on my dogs and it cured the mange every time. He also used tomato juice on them when they messed with skunks and it worked. I appreciate Ted's contributions, but he puts his britches on one leg at a time just like we all do."
02/27/2009: Ted from Bangkok, Thailand replies: "I don't use boric acid at all. I used a saturated borax in 1% hydrogen peroxide solution. Boric acid is never used. In any event, certain mild mange can be helped by applying vegetable oils, but I cannot confirm this. In an event I can't get borax, I might consider benzoyl peroxide 5% applied thinly to the area that's infected to buy some time.
If the dog needs emergency care I would consider a vet. An exception does occur if the vet can't do anything about it, which does happen from time to time.
[YEA] 02/24/2009: Cathy from Warner Robins, GA/USA: "My 2 1/2 year old great dane developed demodectic mange after an illness. She was placed on very expensive meds, prescription dog food and IV injections to boost her immune system. We spent a FORTUNE, the dog got better but a several months later she had an upper respiratory infection and the mange returned. Frustrated and running out of money I found your website and the peroxide/borax treatment for mange. WOW! It worked like a charm. The mange cleared up much faster than it did the first time on all of the expensive medications. She is doing great! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!!!"
[YEA] 02/18/2009: Patty from Jacksonville, FL: "Micki is a beautiful male miniature dachshund who's breeding career was over before it began due to several patches of demodex mites. The patches were small, but none the less annoying and heartbreaking! When first diagnosed, my vet prescribed Goodwinal Ointment, which seemed benign but still had some ingredients I felt less good about using, so I found Ted's remedy and began using it. I mixed the borax and hydrogen peroxide exactly as specified on this web site, and within a few weeks all his hair loss was gone and his coat is like black velvet ever since. Because of loving in Florida, I use this solution every 2 weeks in the warm months to help keep fleas and ticks at bay as well, since it kills off their eggs.
I have a friend who now has a female mini dachshund who had lost all her hair due to this same mite and I am going to help her treat her dog with Ted's remedy. We will take before and after pictures and hopefully be able to post them here. I also have before and after pictures of Micki and would love to share them.
Thanks Ted's Remedy!
From a happy Micki."
EC: Yes, we'd love to post your before and after photos! Please send to email@example.com (note: this account uses a SpamArrest filter, so you need to confirm your email). Thanks!
02/17/2009: Jonny from Hamilton, Ontario, Canada: "Mange treatment - Borax, Hydrogen Peroxide and Water
My Dog recently contracted mange and was suffering badly after only a few weeks. It broke my heart to see her in that condition, and taking her to the vet would cost more then I could afford. I tried researching treatments that could be made and given at home (she becomes so traumatized when away from home)
After finding no recomendations other then antibiotic (which can destroy the G.I. system of any animal) I was lost... until I found your site.
I read, and read, and read; gaining a new sense of hope for my sweetheart. I found the mange remedy, and mentioned it to a local vet.
WELL, I knew I was on the right track when he freaked out, border line yelling, saying that "it was a ridiculus idea, get her on antibiotics now, dont waste your time!" and i knew this would work because he never once said it wouldn't work... just to do it his way (no crazy mark-up and bills to hand out... I don't blame him I guess)
I have taken before pictures... and when finished the applications and treatment, will post after ones as well (she is such a gorgous dog... can't wait to see her again with all of her hair)
Thanks, in advance, for this site; the greatest tool in helping our little family members :)"
[YEA] 02/16/2009: Paula from Lodi, CA: "I came across this site while searching for mange cures other than ivermectin for "Bonnie" an APBT that we had rescued. I tried the ivermectin from the vet for about 1 month and did not see much improvement.She started getting the mange when she was about 5 months old. Ted's remedy seems to be helping and her hair is growing back though it has been a few months. I did not realize I should be treating the back yard, inside rugs, etc. We also have an adopted bull mastiff who is 2 and our old dachsund who is 14. They don't seem to be bothered by the mites. I wash their bedding weekly and now include the borax in the wash. I want to make sure I am eliminating/controlling the source for Bonnie so she can recover. The vet also said I could give her 1 benydryl (25mg) twice daily to help with the itching. It seems to help. I'm hoping her immune system kicks in soon and can help her control the mites."